One of our favorite project cars is our 2011 Mustang GT 5.0 dubbed Wild E. Coyote. We have completed our first set of bolt-ons, with an Airaid intake and SCT tuner.  This time we are installing an entire new exhaust system onto Wild E. Coyote from JPC Racing. The new exhaust system includes full JPC 304 stainless long tube headers, catted X-pipe, over axle tubes, and axle back exhaust.

One of the best features about this JPC exhaust system is that the system is completely modular and you can use any of them along with the factory components already on your ’11-’12 GT. That means you can start with any one of the components we are installing today, and then install the other components later as your time and budget allows. All of the components are also built right here in the USA.

Each of the components above can be purchased separately and will all independently work with the factory components. We are installing the JPC 1-3/4 primary long tube headers, catted X-pipe, over axle pipes, and axle back exhaust.

JPC Racing’s owner Justin Burcham explained, “All of our exhaust components are built right here in Maryland just for JPC. The main benefits with our modular system design was to be different than other manufacturers out there. We want our customers to be able to buy one piece of this system at a time, whereas some other manufactures design their exhaust components to only work with their parts, making the initial purchase more costly. Our system will work with all factory components.”

How modular is the JPC exhaust system? The JPC headers will work with the factory H-pipe for instance. The JPC off road X-pipe will work as a replacement for the factory H-pipe.  You can even use the JPC over-axle pipes with the factory H-pipe and mufflers if wanted. Though the only difference is that the catted X-Pipe we are using will only work with the JPC headers only because you would be installing an additional set of catalytic converters if you use the catted X-pipe with the factory headers. The components are also extremely well made with 304 stainless steel as well as super tight and precise hand TIG welds that use virtually no wire filler.

The first thing we did was to get ready for the install was to unpack and inspect all of the hardware that we would be installing today. The JPC full exhaust system looks the business for sure and the parts are very well made with nice welds and excellent fit and finish. We particularly liked the polished stainless steel mufflers adding a bit of show to go with the new power and sound. All you have to do is look at the new exhaust components next to the factory gear to see how much more well built the JPC hardware is. Check out the gallery for more photos of the hardware we are installing today.

Before and After Sound Comparison of the JPC Exhaust on our 2011 GT!

Specifications:

JPC Racing 2011-2012 Mustang GT 5.0 Stainless Steel Long Tube Headers # 011LTSS
• Fits auto or manual
• 304 Stainless steel, 18 gauge tubing with stainless laser cut flanges
• Megaphone 3-inch spike merge type collector w/spike
• 1 ¾-inch primaries – 1 7/8-inch coming soon
• Uses factory header studs with ball and socket connection at H-pipe, uses factory exhaust clamps

JPC Racing 2011-2012 Mustang GT Stainless Steel Hi Flow Catted X Pipe #011XPSS
• 304 Stainless Steel Hi-Flow Catted X-Pipe
• Converters are Metallic spun cats stainless 200 cell count
• Uses factory type ball and socket connection, uses factory exhaust clamps
• Will not work with any other manufactures headers
• 2 ¾-inch diameter mandrel bent
• Off-road X-pipe will work in replacement of Factory H-pipe

JPC Mandrel Bent Over the Axle Pipes for 2011-2012 GT 5.0 #011OverAxle
• 304 18 Gauge Stainless steel, 2 ¾-inch diameter
• Mandrel bent design-eliminates factory kinks and resonators, increases exhaust flow
• Uses factory type ball and socket connection at muffler, uses factory exhaust clamps
• Uses factory connection at H-pipe/X-pipe
• Will work with factory or factory replacement mufflers
• Will work with Factory H-pipe

JPC Racing 2011-2012 Mustang GT/GT500 Axle Back : Polished Stainless Steel #011AxleBack
• 304 18 gauge Stainless steel design, 3-inch Internal Sized Muffler
• 4-inch slash cut double wall tip
• Factory replacement muffler, will work with Stock or JPC over axle pipes
• Straight through design for more exhaust flow
• Works with all factory hangers/clamps and hardware

The first order of business is to remove the Airaid intake, battery, and a few other goodies that make the header bolts more accessable. From the bottom of the car we removed the factory exhaust all the way up to the stock headers.

Once we had Wild E. Coyote on the lift, we took off the factory H-pipe. Next up you need to support the engine with a cradle or using a floor jack and a block of wood. Just be careful you don’t damage the oil pan if you use the floor jack method, a cradle works better. Once you have your engine supported, you can loosen the motor mount nuts from the top of the car. We also removed both motor mount brackets from the car, unbolted the starter from the transmission, and loosened the AC compressor bolts.

Be careful with the fragile AC line, or you will end up with more to fix after your install. JPC also notes that the install is a lot easier if you lower the K-member. If you are installing on an automatic transmission car disconnecting the transmission lines makes things easier as well.

Once you get the K-member dropped you can start removing the stock exhaust manifolds. Be careful with the removal though, you will be reusing the factory exhaust gaskets. After removing the factory manifolds go ahead and remove the factory O2 sensors to install into the JPC collector

JPC reminds you to install headers from the bottom of the car and make sure you have your starter and block feet in place before you tighten the header bolts, or you will end up having to loosen the header blots to do so later. Burcham said, "We wanted our buyers to be able to use the factory studs and nuts to install our headers. The factory studs and nuts are less likely to suffer from gasket and sealing issues than some other kits that ship with bolts."

Install all the nuts loosely to start with and tighten the bolts in the middle of the headers working out on both sides. After the bolts are tight, you can reinstall the starter, AC mount, motor mounts, battery tray, and battery in that order.

The last thing you do is reinstall the steering shaft on the driver side. If you are installing on an automatic car be sure you put the transmission lines you removed back in place too. After the headers are on and the parts are reinstalled you are ready to install the X- pipe. Burcham said, "One of our primary concerns with the design of our headers was that there be enough clearance to allow the installer to reach the factory studs and nuts during the header install with a normal socket. This came from the fact that we are installers first and designers second."

Installing the X pipe is a snap compared to the header install. You simply mate them with the ends of the header. The hardware needed for installing the X pipe is included. Once you get the X pipe on the car and adjust it for the best fit, you start tightening the clamps from the middle out. Once that X pipe was installed, we moved on to the installation of the JPC over axle tubes.

We only needed to install one of the O2 sensor harness extenders. The lucky sensor was the secondary O2 on the passenger side.

The over axle pipes are made in two pieces. The first section connects to the X-pipe utilizing the stock clamps. Just lightly snug the bolts for the time being so you can adjust the exhaust. Also, a support under the axle tubes will aid in the installation.

Next, assemble the second piece of the JPC over axle pipes using the supplied clamps. These clamps need to be tightened enough to keep the pipes together, but must be loose enough that you can adjust them to fit. You then thread the pipes over the axle and adjust them for the best fit. You can adjust the muffler tips by sliding the axle pipes in or out. Since we will also be installing the JPC axle back system, we aren't going to tighten the clamps at the muffler yet. You start tightening clamps at the front and work towards the rear of the car.

After installing, those over axle pipes, we moved to the last install step, the axle back exhaust. A new axle back system is the first thing that many Mustang owners do with their cars to get more sound. The JPC axle backs are dead sexy with their polished stainless construction and would be perfect on a show car that sees strip duty as well.

We reused those factory hangers on the new JPC axle back. You simply install the factory hangers on the JPC axle backs just as they came off the factory mufflers. Adjust the height of the mufflers on the car before tightening down all the clamps.

At this point, the install is done, and we rechecked our clamps and bolts for tightness and then checked the exhaust for leaks. Don't skip the leak check, it is of critical importance. Burcham said, "We also used all factory style clamps in the design of our components to give the user better clamping and sealing thereby reducing leaks." After ensuring all was tight and we had no leaks, we fired the beast up and headed to our beloved Dynojet chassis dyno.

Some folks will like the idea of this system with the factory mufflers for a bit more of a stealth sound for the car. We dyno tested the car with the JPC axle back installed and then with the factory GT mufflers installed to see if there was any difference on the power output so those of you worried about getting too much attention from local law enforcement. With the stock mufflers in place and using the JPC headers, catted X, and over axle pipes Wild E. Coyote put down 416 HP and 391 lb/ft on the dyno. Those are some very impressive numbers showing that we gained roughly 23 HP.

The best dyno run with the JPC Axle back system was 425 HP and 400 lb/ft. Think about that for a little bit. Changing the axle back mufflers alone grabbed us another 8 HP and roughly 8 lb/ft. Who says mufflers can’t get you more power?

Mustang fanatics will generally agree that power is the most important when it comes to headers and exhaust work. Right after power sound is a big consideration too. There are three main aspects about the JPC exhaust that makes it highly desirable.  First, is that the whole system is designed by a company that primarily works on late model Mustangs, with extreme attention to detail put into the design of the system for ease of install and optimal functionality.  Secondly is the quality of craftsmanship.  JPC uses very high quality 304 stainless steel and every single welded joint is perfect and free of slag.  Lastly, the modular design makes it affordable for people on a budget, as they can build out the exhaust system as money allows.  Oh, and I guess there is one more… the very considerable power gains!