Stang TV Forums - Tech Articles http://www.stangtv.com/forum Spinning wrenches on the Blue Oval. en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:42:10 GMT vBulletin 1 http://www.stangtv.com/forum/images/misc/rss.jpg Stang TV Forums - Tech Articles http://www.stangtv.com/forum <![CDATA[Inside Spaghetti Menders Wiring Systems & Technology]]> http://www.stangtv.com/forum/inside-spaghetti-menders-wiring-systems-technology-6139.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:22:45 GMT Wiring is usually the last thing an enthusiast thinks about when building a new race car. And - it usually shows. Bundles of unlabeled wires, shorts, difficulty starting, and electrical gremlins usually show up when the car debuts, or soon after. Even if not, the wiring being an afterthought usually comes back to bite the racer at the worst possible time... race day. One man, Bob Lapp, made a vow a lot time ago to fix this disaster once and for all by designing, building and selling turn-key, cutting-edge, simple wiring systems for race cars. His company is named - most appropriately - Spaghetti Menders.





Tracing back through someone’s wiring job can be a headache. Pull back on a race car's dash and often all you find is black wiring from an obvious single spool of wire. What is ground, power, or even what goes where -- sometimes even the owner doesn't know. Hopefully, this can be avoided from day one with a correctly engineered and installed system.

We followed along with Bob as he designed and wired up a system for our infamous 1978 Malibu - aka Project Grandma. Grandma sports an Edelbrock EFI-powered 555ci Crate engine built by Pat Musi.

Spaghetti Menders: A Wiring Company is Born

“I use to be part owner of a company that use to wire fire trucks and ambulances, that required massive amount of wiring,” says Bob Lapp, owner
of Spaghetti Menders. “Through integration of systems, thats how we came up with relay banks and smaller triggers to fire them all. How it started in the race cars, was when I first wired Les Baer’s car."

"We used the old relays with the plug-ins on the bottom that we use to bolt to the firewall. In the process of working on the car, one of the workers hit a wire and ripped it out of the bottom of the relay. What happened was that the car took off and the fuel pump shut off. Mix that with the nitrous that was still on and then the hood disappeared.

The question came up, ‘How do we keep from this happening again?’....This is where we came up with the concept of sealing the relays in epoxy. We used the computer cables on the emergency cars, so that was easy.”

Understanding Spaghetti Menders Wiring Philosophy

When we spoke with Bob Lapp, he explained to us that there are three core goals when it comes to wiring a car:
  • Organization
  • Simplicity
  • Reliability
Spaghetti Menders has done a great job incorporating all of them. Moving into their tenth year in 2010, each system has been designed vehicle specific. The team takes into account all accessories being used in the car and if it is turboed, supercharged, nitrous-fed, or naturally aspirated. This helps determine if you will need a circuit for your bilge pump or a timer for your nitrous kit.

Each system is broken down into different modules in the vehicle, with a central “hub” joining all of them together. For example - for our Project Grandma, we have the needed components for our Edelbrock nitrous system but also provisions built in for a supercharger that we plan to add later. For our application, the relay boxes are broken down into dash, motor, switch panel, and trunk.


Spaghetti Menders designs their circuit boards for their systems in house


From the left, the top and bottom posts are the power and ground to the relay box. The green middle connector are inputs. The 9-pin cable is for trigger sources to the switch panel. The rest is a five circuit relay that independently contain one relay, yellow light to indicate a working circuit, green activation light, fuse, and power output post.

The Relay Boxes

The magic of the system lies in the heart of the relay boxes, and that is the lack of wiring. By the slim profile, you can image how impossible it would be to run that much wiring, and that is because everything is controlled by a circuit board. Each relay box also has one main battery and ground input from the battery that is attached to the side.

“The main concept behind it was to get the high power closest to the device,” Lapp remarked. “Then by using the computer cables, it is signaling the relay on and off, which can be any length and small wiring. It only requires 250 milliamps to trigger the switch which is why it can be that small.”

Bob was the first person that used computer cables and relay boxes together on race car wiring and it has proven as a viable option. These posts also serve as a constant power/ground source for all associated electronics.

The switch point power for the electronics is done through a smaller post on the opposite end of the relay. Between this post and the relay is two lights (yellow and green) plus a fuse. The yellow light closest to the relay tells you that power is getting to that circuit properly. When you activate the switch, the green light will eliminate, if it doesn’t, the fuse is blown or the relay is bad. Pretty simple right?


Each relay box comes clearly labeled for what goes where

Inputs and Switch Points

Each relay box also contain 3-5 wire inputs between the positive and ground posts. These inputs can do a variety of tasks. For example our nitrous relay box, we inputed the trans-brake, and carb-mounted activation switch. The trans-brake input serves as an interrupt while the nitrous will not activate unless it sees the nitrous activation switch. There is even an input that comes from the fuel pump relay box that will cut power to the nitrous relay box incase of pump failure.

“The inputs on the relay boxes is where we need that other real world data coming into the car,” Lapp stated. “For example, we can run the intercooler pump input in the trunk, versus having to run it all the way to the front of the car.” Each of these inputs also have an LED to ensure it operates correctly. Generally, a three pin input is used in which the center pin feeds power to the first and third pin inputs.

The switch points for the relays are distributed through the computer-like 9 pin cables. Each relay box feeds those cables back to a central “hub”, (dash, motor, trunk) and distributed to the switch panel via a 15 pin plug. “Depending on what you need, the interface box talks between the relay boxes and switch panels,” Lapp says.

“The interface modules allow for expandability of the system. This is where we make a decision of what kind of application it will be. A supercharged application uses the same relay boxes as a nitrous one, they are just told to do different things.” Since switch points are low amperage, these small diameter wires are more than suitable. The panel then turns on the respective device correctly, since these are all pre wired before you get it.


The central “hub” where all the switch points come together from the car. Instead of wires running up and down the middle of the car, it is just these cables


Only one 15-pin computer cable connects to the switch panel that comes pre-engineered specifically to your application

Everything Goes to the Battery: The Theory of Floating Grounds

Spaghetti Menders utilizes floating power and grounds, meaning the power only draws directly from the battery (and not piggybacked to other sources) and all the grounds route to the negative battery terminal and not to the chassis. This locates a bulkhead fitting into the wire wall to supply power for the front/cabin relay boxes as well as the starter.

Each electronic connection that requires a power source or a ground is routed to either the bulk heads or directly to the battery. Not only does this keep wiring cleaner, it also guarantees a strong enough power and ground source for everything wired in. Another aspect is data logging and sensor read outs; daisy chained power sources and chassis grounded points can cause interference that can keep these from operating correctly.


Bulk head fittings safely transmit power and ground through the firewall, offering pickup points from the battery on each side


The main components laid out

Installation Highlights of our Spaghetti Menders Control System

The system in our Malibu is typical for an EFI Big Block with a single state nitrous system. However, we also have added provisions for an intercooler should be add a supercharger or turbocharger in the future.

Luckily the "Chief Menders" of the Spaghetti, Theresa and Bob Lapp, were able to make it to the powerTV garage to help us with the installation. Also since we didn’t want to run an alternator, we went with a dual 16-volt system.

Lets take a look at some of the installation highlights:



Dual XS Power Batteries (S1000) that are 16V provide the voltage to the Spaghetti Menders system. Spaghetti included a dual battery kit that includes all connections, battery cables, and charging lugs to make setup simple and easy. Just measure, cut, and install.



First course of action was to get the electronics mounted where we wanted them. As we installed them, we labeled all the wires so we knew later where they needed to go. Bob started with the battery terminals and remote shutoff switch first. The charge plug for the batteries was placed in a cutout through the license plate.



Bob frequently has to advise people where to run wiring in the safest area possible. You want to try to stay away from heat, fans, headers/exhaust, superchargers and other danger areas that could sever wires. We ran our wires under the front roll cage extensions.



Here we mounted the front Spaghetti relay box that would control the lights, engine controls, fans, and water pump right by the front fender. It was mounted on a tab to the left of the radiator.

Bob then uses screw in c-clips to run the wire underneath the cage for a clean fitment. Power, ground, input cable, and the nine-pin cable are the only wires we need to run in there. The remaining wires will go to head lights, park lights, electric fan, and water pump. The input wire will go to our bump start (driver and passenger side) for adjusting valves on the fly.



Mounted to the rear mini-tub was the relay box for the fuel pumps, batteries, intercooler, rear lights, etc.



Spaghetti's custom control box.



Here's our wiring job half way through in the rear of the car. It looks a little intimidating, but you need to remember: one wire at a time.

More Junk in that Trunk

Our relay board in the trunk housed two fuel pump outputs (though we only have one, hence the loop), rear parking lights, brake lights, and intercooler pump (for when we add a supercharger). Our inputs included one for the intercooler pump and a master kill switch to disable the fuel pumps if the kill switch is turned off. Above the large board is a smaller one that is designed for our nitrous fuel pump. A secondary switch panel is used and this will only activate the nitrous pump when you need to. Also, when we go to the supercharger, it will be easy to remove the nitrous accessories.



We removed the dash in order to run all of our wires cleanly and neatly. With the Spaghetti system, wires really do not need to be nearly as long as in a traditional style control box. Since we have relay boxes in the engine compartment, interior, and rear trunk area, wires longer than 8 feet are rare.



The interior is where we run into our largest amount of wiring. A slew of Auto Meter gauges, MSD 7 ignition box, Pro-Flo XT ECU, and other accessories all needed to be routed accordingly. For low amperage electronics - like our gauges - we ran to a power junction block (picture above the Auto Meter tach) to tie these together on one power source.

Wiring for the ignition box and ECU get their own power sources. Our relay outputs for our under dash relay box included motor start, ignition power, dash lights, computer power, and line lock power. The inputs on the three pin included another bump start switch and neutral safety switch. Below the relay box was our Spaghetti Menders nitrous timer and dedicated relay box. After two days of wiring, we were buttoned up and ready to roll.



Spaghetti's Top Five Wiring Tips
1) Label Everything -- It is hard to remember where each wire is ran in your car. Label the wiring at any junction point, at the contact. This way if you ever run into wiring problems down the road, it will make for a lot easier process on tracing it.

2) Correct Size Wire -- Ignition boxes draw more amperage than gauges do. Make sure that if wire extending is needed, to lengthen the wires with the manufactures recommend gauge. Also keep in mind that some contacts require special wire, like a shielded cable to help eliminate electrical noise.



3) Color Code It - As mentioned above, if wire extending is needed, stick with the same color. Don’t have a yellow wire coming out of the ignition box that is connected to a black wire. This is going to make your life hell when it comes to finding a problem.



4) Mending Connections + Shrink Tubing - Different people and manufactures will either tell you to use socketed/crimp connections or solder connections. Some say soldering can cause interference through the metal and others say butt connections fall apart too easy. Ask the manufacture what they recommend for their component. Either way, use shrink tubing. It will help product soldered connections from grounding out. For crimp connections (like ours) it helps keep the bare wire at the end of the plug from grounding out and it also helps hold the wire into the connector.

5) Double Check Your Connections - This is simple, just sometimes time consuming. Double check all your connections when you are done. Not only test the connection to assure it is tight, but also the wires are going the right way. Having polarities swapped backwards on an electronic is not only the easiest way to destroy it, but potentially burn your car to the ground.



The Final Results

It took Bob about 16 hours to completely wire our 1978 Malibu from start to finish, including the time to take breaks to shoot photos and video. The end product was stunning - clean, logical, and simple. What once started out as a heap of wires, boards, and spools ended up as an organized electrical system.

Spaghetti Menders offers a top-shelf wiring system that is customized to your application for your exact race car. Basically - they do the hard work for you in terms of designing how the system will operate. All you really need to do is install it - and trust us - with Spaghetti Menders - this is the easy part.

Once we were completed, we decided to fire up our Malibu! Hopefully you'll enjoy the fine sound of the Edelbrock/Musi 555 as much as we did! Thanks Spaghetti Menders!



Contact:

Spaghetti Menders
Web: www.racewiring.com
Phone: (815) 963-1005 ]]> Wiring is usually the last thing an enthusiast thinks about when building a new race car. And - it usually shows. Bundles of unlabeled wires, shorts, difficulty starting, and electrical gremlins usually show up when the car debuts, or soon after. Even if not, the wiring being an afterthought usually comes back to bite the racer at the worst possible time... race day. One man, Bob Lapp, made a vow a lot time ago to fix this disaster once and for all by designing, building and selling turn-key, cutting-edge, simple wiring systems for race cars. His company is named - most appropriately - Spaghetti Menders.











Tracing back through someone’s wiring job can be a headache. Pull back on a race car's dash and often all you find is black wiring from an obvious single spool of wire. What is ground, power, or even what goes where -- sometimes even the owner doesn't know. Hopefully, this can be avoided from day one with a correctly engineered and installed system.



We followed along with Bob as he designed and wired up a system for our infamous 1978 Malibu - aka Project Grandma. Grandma sports an Edelbrock EFI-powered 555ci Crate engine built by Pat Musi.



Spaghetti Menders: A Wiring Company is Born



“I use to be part owner of a company that use to wire fire trucks and ambulances, that required massive amount of wiring,” says Bob Lapp, owner
of Spaghetti Menders. “Through integration of systems, thats how we came up with relay banks and smaller triggers to fire them all. How it started in the race cars, was when I first wired Les Baer’s car."



"We used the old relays with the plug-ins on the bottom that we use to bolt to the firewall. In the process of working on the car, one of the workers hit a wire and ripped it out of the bottom of the relay. What happened was that the car took off and the fuel pump shut off. Mix that with the nitrous that was still on and then the hood disappeared.



The question came up, ‘How do we keep from this happening again?’....This is where we came up with the concept of sealing the relays in epoxy. We used the computer cables on the emergency cars, so that was easy.”



Understanding Spaghetti Menders Wiring Philosophy



When we spoke with Bob Lapp, he explained to us that there are three core goals when it comes to wiring a car:

  • Organization

  • Simplicity

  • Reliability

Spaghetti Menders has done a great job incorporating all of them. Moving into their tenth year in 2010, each system has been designed vehicle specific. The team takes into account all accessories being used in the car and if it is turboed, supercharged, nitrous-fed, or naturally aspirated. This helps determine if you will need a circuit for your bilge pump or a timer for your nitrous kit.



Each system is broken down into different modules in the vehicle, with a central “hub” joining all of them together. For example - for our Project Grandma, we have the needed components for our Edelbrock nitrous system but also provisions built in for a supercharger that we plan to add later. For our application, the relay boxes are broken down into dash, motor, switch panel, and trunk.





Spaghetti Menders designs their circuit boards for their systems in house





From the left, the top and bottom posts are the power and ground to the relay box. The green middle connector are inputs. The 9-pin cable is for trigger sources to the switch panel. The rest is a five circuit relay that independently contain one relay, yellow light to indicate a working circuit, green activation light, fuse, and power output post.



The Relay Boxes



The magic of the system lies in the heart of the relay boxes, and that is the lack of wiring. By the slim profile, you can image how impossible it would be to run that much wiring, and that is because everything is controlled by a circuit board. Each relay box also has one main battery and ground input from the battery that is attached to the side.



“The main concept behind it was to get the high power closest to the device,” Lapp remarked. “Then by using the computer cables, it is signaling the relay on and off, which can be any length and small wiring. It only requires 250 milliamps to trigger the switch which is why it can be that small.”



Bob was the first person that used computer cables and relay boxes together on race car wiring and it has proven as a viable option. These posts also serve as a constant power/ground source for all associated electronics.



The switch point power for the electronics is done through a smaller post on the opposite end of the relay. Between this post and the relay is two lights (yellow and green) plus a fuse. The yellow light closest to the relay tells you that power is getting to that circuit properly. When you activate the switch, the green light will eliminate, if it doesn’t, the fuse is blown or the relay is bad. Pretty simple right?





Each relay box comes clearly labeled for what goes where



Inputs and Switch Points



Each relay box also contain 3-5 wire inputs between the positive and ground posts. These inputs can do a variety of tasks. For example our nitrous relay box, we inputed the trans-brake, and carb-mounted activation switch. The trans-brake input serves as an interrupt while the nitrous will not activate unless it sees the nitrous activation switch. There is even an input that comes from the fuel pump relay box that will cut power to the nitrous relay box incase of pump failure.



“The inputs on the relay boxes is where we need that other real world data coming into the car,” Lapp stated. “For example, we can run the intercooler pump input in the trunk, versus having to run it all the way to the front of the car.” Each of these inputs also have an LED to ensure it operates correctly. Generally, a three pin input is used in which the center pin feeds power to the first and third pin inputs.



The switch points for the relays are distributed through the computer-like 9 pin cables. Each relay box feeds those cables back to a central “hub”, (dash, motor, trunk) and distributed to the switch panel via a 15 pin plug. “Depending on what you need, the interface box talks between the relay boxes and switch panels,” Lapp says.



“The interface modules allow for expandability of the system. This is where we make a decision of what kind of application it will be. A supercharged application uses the same relay boxes as a nitrous one, they are just told to do different things.” Since switch points are low amperage, these small diameter wires are more than suitable. The panel then turns on the respective device correctly, since these are all pre wired before you get it.





The central “hub” where all the switch points come together from the car. Instead of wires running up and down the middle of the car, it is just these cables





Only one 15-pin computer cable connects to the switch panel that comes pre-engineered specifically to your application



Everything Goes to the Battery: The Theory of Floating Grounds



Spaghetti Menders utilizes floating power and grounds, meaning the power only draws directly from the battery (and not piggybacked to other sources) and all the grounds route to the negative battery terminal and not to the chassis. This locates a bulkhead fitting into the wire wall to supply power for the front/cabin relay boxes as well as the starter.



Each electronic connection that requires a power source or a ground is routed to either the bulk heads or directly to the battery. Not only does this keep wiring cleaner, it also guarantees a strong enough power and ground source for everything wired in. Another aspect is data logging and sensor read outs; daisy chained power sources and chassis grounded points can cause interference that can keep these from operating correctly.





Bulk head fittings safely transmit power and ground through the firewall, offering pickup points from the battery on each side





The main components laid out



Installation Highlights of our Spaghetti Menders Control System



The system in our Malibu is typical for an EFI Big Block with a single state nitrous system. However, we also have added provisions for an intercooler should be add a supercharger or turbocharger in the future.



Luckily the "Chief Menders" of the Spaghetti, Theresa and Bob Lapp, were able to make it to the powerTV garage to help us with the installation. Also since we didn’t want to run an alternator, we went with a dual 16-volt system.



Lets take a look at some of the installation highlights:







Dual XS Power Batteries (S1000) that are 16V provide the voltage to the Spaghetti Menders system. Spaghetti included a dual battery kit that includes all connections, battery cables, and charging lugs to make setup simple and easy. Just measure, cut, and install.







First course of action was to get the electronics mounted where we wanted them. As we installed them, we labeled all the wires so we knew later where they needed to go. Bob started with the battery terminals and remote shutoff switch first. The charge plug for the batteries was placed in a cutout through the license plate.







Bob frequently has to advise people where to run wiring in the safest area possible. You want to try to stay away from heat, fans, headers/exhaust, superchargers and other danger areas that could sever wires. We ran our wires under the front roll cage extensions.







Here we mounted the front Spaghetti relay box that would control the lights, engine controls, fans, and water pump right by the front fender. It was mounted on a tab to the left of the radiator.



Bob then uses screw in c-clips to run the wire underneath the cage for a clean fitment. Power, ground, input cable, and the nine-pin cable are the only wires we need to run in there. The remaining wires will go to head lights, park lights, electric fan, and water pump. The input wire will go to our bump start (driver and passenger side) for adjusting valves on the fly.







Mounted to the rear mini-tub was the relay box for the fuel pumps, batteries, intercooler, rear lights, etc.







Spaghetti's custom control box.







Here's our wiring job half way through in the rear of the car. It looks a little intimidating, but you need to remember: one wire at a time.



More Junk in that Trunk



Our relay board in the trunk housed two fuel pump outputs (though we only have one, hence the loop), rear parking lights, brake lights, and intercooler pump (for when we add a supercharger). Our inputs included one for the intercooler pump and a master kill switch to disable the fuel pumps if the kill switch is turned off. Above the large board is a smaller one that is designed for our nitrous fuel pump. A secondary switch panel is used and this will only activate the nitrous pump when you need to. Also, when we go to the supercharger, it will be easy to remove the nitrous accessories.







We removed the dash in order to run all of our wires cleanly and neatly. With the Spaghetti system, wires really do not need to be nearly as long as in a traditional style control box. Since we have relay boxes in the engine compartment, interior, and rear trunk area, wires longer than 8 feet are rare.







The interior is where we run into our largest amount of wiring. A slew of Auto Meter gauges, MSD 7 ignition box, Pro-Flo XT ECU, and other accessories all needed to be routed accordingly. For low amperage electronics - like our gauges - we ran to a power junction block (picture above the Auto Meter tach) to tie these together on one power source.



Wiring for the ignition box and ECU get their own power sources. Our relay outputs for our under dash relay box included motor start, ignition power, dash lights, computer power, and line lock power. The inputs on the three pin included another bump start switch and neutral safety switch. Below the relay box was our Spaghetti Menders nitrous timer and dedicated relay box. After two days of wiring, we were buttoned up and ready to roll.







Spaghetti's Top Five Wiring Tips

1) Label Everything -- It is hard to remember where each wire is ran in your car. Label the wiring at any junction point, at the contact. This way if you ever run into wiring problems down the road, it will make for a lot easier process on tracing it.



2) Correct Size Wire -- Ignition boxes draw more amperage than gauges do. Make sure that if wire extending is needed, to lengthen the wires with the manufactures recommend gauge. Also keep in mind that some contacts require special wire, like a shielded cable to help eliminate electrical noise.







3) Color Code It - As mentioned above, if wire extending is needed, stick with the same color. Don’t have a yellow wire coming out of the ignition box that is connected to a black wire. This is going to make your life hell when it comes to finding a problem.







4) Mending Connections + Shrink Tubing - Different people and manufactures will either tell you to use socketed/crimp connections or solder connections. Some say soldering can cause interference through the metal and others say butt connections fall apart too easy. Ask the manufacture what they recommend for their component. Either way, use shrink tubing. It will help product soldered connections from grounding out. For crimp connections (like ours) it helps keep the bare wire at the end of the plug from grounding out and it also helps hold the wire into the connector.



5) Double Check Your Connections - This is simple, just sometimes time consuming. Double check all your connections when you are done. Not only test the connection to assure it is tight, but also the wires are going the right way. Having polarities swapped backwards on an electronic is not only the easiest way to destroy it, but potentially burn your car to the ground.







The Final Results



It took Bob about 16 hours to completely wire our 1978 Malibu from start to finish, including the time to take breaks to shoot photos and video. The end product was stunning - clean, logical, and simple. What once started out as a heap of wires, boards, and spools ended up as an organized electrical system.



Spaghetti Menders offers a top-shelf wiring system that is customized to your application for your exact race car. Basically - they do the hard work for you in terms of designing how the system will operate. All you really need to do is install it - and trust us - with Spaghetti Menders - this is the easy part.



Once we were completed, we decided to fire up our Malibu! Hopefully you'll enjoy the fine sound of the Edelbrock/Musi 555 as much as we did! Thanks Spaghetti Menders!







Contact:



Spaghetti Menders

Web: www.racewiring.com

Phone: (815) 963-1005
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]]> Tech Articles mark@stangtv http://www.stangtv.com/forum/inside-spaghetti-menders-wiring-systems-technology-6139.html Building a Nasty 408ci SBF with FPS and Edelbrock http://www.stangtv.com/forum/building-nasty-408ci-sbf-fps-edelbrock-6096.html Mon, 09 Nov 2009 03:36:46 GMT One of the requests that we get over and over again is 'More Engine Builds'. Well, you got your wish with this build of a 550 hp 408ci small block Ford by Ford Performance Solutions featuring Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads. Owner Troy Bowen used his over 15 years of engine building experience and got in touch with the industry leaders to come up with a engine combination that would make 550+ hp, run on pump gas, and be fully streetable -- all without breaking the bank.



When building a custom-built stroker 351W - there are literally millions of options. From block decisions, to rotating assemblies, to cylinder heads; it's difficult to know where to start. We think a good place to start is a good reputable engine builder that spends his every week creating engine combinations from wild to mild. Our guy: Ford Performance Solution's Troy Bowen.

We gave Troy four basic parameters to work with when we started to blueprint out our 351W.

  1. Don't blow the budget, but don't scrimp. Make it affordable.
  2. Looking for 550-600 horsepower on pump gas
  3. Everything "off the shelf" No exotic or custom components.
  4. Use a carb and hydraulic cam.

We spoke with Troy for about an hour on the phone as he started to come up with a game plan. For the short-block, we would use a stock block 351W with a girdle to keep the price down, along with a steel crank and rods that would punch the engine out to 408 cubic inches. SRP pistons and JE Pro Seal rings would make an affordable 1-2 punch.

For the long-block, Troy selected a full compliment of Edelbrock goodies: CNC ported Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads, Edelbrock Super Victor Intake, plus Edelbrock valve covers and air cleaner. A Quick Fuel carb would top the intake.

Here is the quick run down on the parts we came up with.

Ford Performance Solutions’ 408 cubic inch Small Block Ford - Build Essentials

Block: Post 1971 351 W Block, .030 Over, Fully Machined by FPS
Crankshaft: RPM International, 4340 Nitrated, 4.00 Stroke, 2.100 Journals
Rods: RPM International, H-Beam 4340 Steel
Hardware: ARP Bolts
Pistons: JE SRP Professional Pistons
Piston Rings: JE Piston Rings; 1.2 mm top ring, 1.5 mm Napier 2nd ring, 3.0 mm oil ring
Oil Pan: Canton Oil Pan
Heads: Edelbrock Victor Jr Heads, CNC Ported by Edelbrock and Assembled
Intake Manifold: Edelbrock Super Victor Intake
Carburetor: Quick Fuel Carburetor
Gaskets: SCE Gaskets
Camshaft: Comp Cams Xtreme Energy Camshaft; Lift: .576 Intake, .600 Exhaust; Duration @ .050: 242 Intake, 248 Exhaust; Lobe Separation: 110.0
Lifters: Comp Cams Lifters
Push Rods: Comp Cams Hi-Tech, 5/16" Diameter, 8.150" Length
Valve Springs: Comp Cams Valve Springs
Rocker Arms: Harland Sharp Rocker arms
Balancer: Professional Products Balancer
Extra Goodies: FPS Girdle, for increased bottom end support; Edelbrock Valve Covers & Air Cleaner, for good looks!



The Short Block:

For this build, building a short block around a good used block made sense. We chose a premium early casting that was in good shape. Especially when you consider the prep that goes into these block when they come into FPS. Not only do they get a shinny new paint job at the end of it all, time is spent hot tanking, magafluxing, cleaning, and honing every surface to insure the blocks rigidity.

"Prepping the block is a big step in building an engine. It is the foundation of which everything is mounted to, and it takes the most abuse during combustion," Bowen explained. We were confident that this block would hold up to the power we are expecting to see from this engine, and more so. This block should be good to around 600-675 hp.



FPS set us up with a post 1971 Windsor blocks, and for a good reason. "In 1972 Ford decided to battle emission standards by lowering the compression ratio of these blocks. Instead of redesigning the engine, they simply casted the block with a taller deck height. That means we can squeeze more cubic inches out of our small block," explained Bowen.


FPS bored the walls of each cylinder out .030 over, bringing the total cylinder bore to 4.030 inches.



Camshaft

For the camshaft in this engine, we went with COMP Cams. COMP does a really nice job selecting the right cam for any engine. So when we told them about the rest of the components we were using, they fired over one of their Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts. We spoke to Chris Mays from COMP to get all the facts on why this cam would work well with our engine.

Chris explained, “when deciding which cam to use in a street/strip car, you first have to decide how much ‘street’ you want out of the engine. That will determine how aggressive the cam can be made.” If your car has a stick, then you can have any "stall" speed you wish. (You simple press the clutch in and rev the engine to the desired speed.) COMP recommended a 3,000 RPM "stall" speed that their cam part number: 35-427-8 uses. This cam works very well with bolt on modifications such as headers, which is something most Fox owners have. It has a little bit of a rough idle, but again that because we wanted a little less ‘street’ out of our engine.

Here are the other specs on the cam:
  • Intake Duration at .050": 242
  • Exhaust Duration at .050": 248
  • Intake Valve Lift: .576
  • Exhaust Valve Lift: .600


The Bottom End - Crankshaft, Pistons and Rods

Going in right under the cam was a 4340 nitrated crankshaft from RPM International. This crank will spin our pistons to the tune of a 4.000 inch stroke. With 2.100 inch journals, this crank was right at home in our Windsor block.



To help stiffen the bottom end of our short block, FPS set us up with one of their Premium Main Girdles. This billet chro-moly piece ties all five mains together to help prevent crank walk and keeps the main webbing of the block intact. Troy clams that this girdle increases the strength and stability of the lower end of the block by 40%.


We then stuck on a COMP Cams Timing Chain Set. This gear has three keys to provide any adjustment we might need.



SRP Pistons by JE

We chose a set of SRP Professional Pistons that will be sealed to the cylinder walls via a set of JE pistons rings. We went with a flat top piston to work with our naturally aspirated set up. These pistons are forged from 4032 aluminum alloy that reduces the piston-to-wall clearance and will give us a quite stroke.

FPS fitted them with JE Pro Seal 1.2 mm top ring, 1.5 mm Napier 2nd ring, and a 3.0 mm for the oil ring. The 1.2 mm top ring is a design that SRP took from modern engines and retrofitted them to work with our older small block. It give us a more durable ring package that will help keep our engine out of the repair shop.

SRP Professional Piston JE Ring Package:
  • 1.2 mm Top Ring
  • 1.5 mm 2nd Ring
  • 3.0 mm Oil Ring


Tying the pistons to the crankshaft, are 8 RPM International Rods. These rods are an H-Beam design that are forged 4340 steel. They are designed to use ARP’s 8740 Cap Screws which are a 7/16th bolt that is designed to hold up to 200,000 psi - more than enough for this application.



Oil Pan

To seal the oil pan, and all other areas requiring a gasket, we used SCE Gaskets. SEC has gaskets and kits of gaskets for a number of late model and classic engines. This makes it easy when ordering as you are always sure you have the right gasket for your application.



To hold the oil under the block, we went with a Canton Racing Products street/strip oil pan. The pan has an extra deep sump that measures 9 inch deep by 7 inch long sump that gives this pan a total oil capacity of 7 quarts. It also helps this aluminum pan catch as much air as possible passing under the car to help cool the oil waiting to be cycled throughout the engine. There is a provision for one of Canton’s Pan Mounted Dipsticks, that way we can see exactly how much oil is in the pan.

Lifters - COMP Retro Fit Kit

Being that the cam we are using is a hydraulic roller cam, you die hard Ford fans will note that the 302 engine family, including the 351 Windsor, did not come with a hydraulic roller cam option. You would be correct. So why are we sliding a hydraulic cam into an engine not designed to use one?



Hydraulic cams are able to outlast and now recently, out perform their flat tappet counterparts. “If you can have your cake and eat it too, that’s always a bonus,” as Chris says. COMP Cams is aware of this and that is the reason they developed a kit that allows you to slide in a hydraulic roller into these older engines that were not designed to accept them. The kit we used features a spider like designed support bracket that screws into the bottom of the lifter valley.



Once the bracket is installed, we moved right into the install of the lifters. The lifters we used were specifically designed for use on a hydraulic roller cam. The High Energy lifters are an OE style design and will work perfectly with our camshaft. They installed very quickly as all we had to do was drop them in and tighten down the bracket once and for all.



Balancer

To keep our rotating mass in balance, we installed a PRW Performance Quotient Series Fluid Damper. Inside this piece, is a steel inertia ring that is encapsulated by high viscosity silicone gel. The ring floats in the get to reduce engine harmonics across the RPM band. Outside are easy to read timing marks and the ever important SFI approved marking.

The Long Block: Edelbrock Victor JR CNC Heads



For our Ford, we wanted to build a really trick set of heads so we could really pump some power out. We started out with Edelbrock’s Victor Jr Heads that were completed CNC Ported by Edelbrock.

These heads leave the spark plugs and the valves in the stock general location, but everything else has been tweaked for more performance. We got in touch with Rick Roberts, an Engineer from Edelbrock, to find out more about these heads.



Edelbrock CNC ports the intake and exhaust ports on these heads to a smooth 210 cc on the intake side, and 75 cc for the exhaust. The entries and exits are CNC matched to the gasket and blended from there. The overall total combustion chamber on the Victor Jr’s were 60 cc on our application, but Edelbrock also has a 70 cc version for those running turbos or other forms of forced induction.

These heads are the key to how this engine is going to make big power. "It all comes down to air demand," says Roberts on the sizes of the runners and combustion chambers, "These would work great with a small engine turning a lot of RPM or a big engine at moderate RPM. This head could be on a dedicated strip engine or equally at home on a street engine." FPS confirmed this as well. "These heads will really shine the higher the RPMs go with the size engine we built," says Bowen. Those large runners and smooth transitions will make getting the air fuel mix into the engine easy, that means less power lost in the engine and more for the tires.

Our heads came complete with valves already installed, but Edelbrock also has a version bare if you have your own special valvetrain to add. Our valves measured 2.05 on the intake, and 1.60 for the exhaust. We used a set of COMP’s dual springs to provide the closing power for our valves. COMP recommended a 160 lb. 1.880 spring for use on the intake valve and, a 3.95 lb. 1.35 spring for the exhaust.



FPS was kind enough to bolt the heads up to the Super Flow 600 flow bench they have at FPS to see what they would do. The results were very nice. Check out the results on the flow graph. Keep in mind that these tests were done with no pipes bolted up to the exhaust ports. Doing so would add 15-20 CFM.


Here is the flow graph from our heads.

Valvetrain - Harland Sharp

To really get these heads rocken, we choose Harland Sharp Victor Jr specific shaft style rocker arms. We spoke with Randy Becker, Jr of Harland Sharp to get the facts on the shaft style rocker arms.

“Shaft style rocker arms offer improved stability and eliminate flex in the rocker stud and girdle," said Becker. "It lets you push the limits of the cam in high-lift race engines.” He also went on and explained how shaft style rocker arms offer more material in the mounts and other components compared to stud mount rocker arms.

"It also gives better geometry, which is why a shaft system can last longer in a high RPM engine." Made sense to us. Plus, more valve lift due to less deflection is a bonus. Although our engine did not have a radical cam, this is insurance for the present, and gives us a stout rocker arm for the future.



Made from 2024 aluminum T3511, these rocker arms are very rigid. We stuck with the Ford 1.6 rocker arm ratio for our Windsor. When selecting what ratio you should run, Randy says pick your cam first. Then pick up the cam card and give them a call. They will help you select the right set of rocker arms and the ratio for them using the info about the cam.



Capping off our valve train was 16 pushrods from COMP. Their Hi-Tech Pushrods are a one piece design that is made from chrome molly. We selected their standard length offering in a 5/16 inch size to work with our Victor Jrs. They slid right in as we started to mate the rocker arms with the heads.



Intake Manifold: Edelbrock Super Victor 351W

To distribute the air fuel mixture to each cylinder, we went with the Edelbrock Super Victor Intake. This aluminum intake is designed to work exceptionally well with after market heads such as the Victor Jr Heads we are using. The runners are a 3.20 square-inch cross sectional design. This intake works well for everything from a high RPM race engine to the 6,500 RPM big Windsor we are using.

Carburetor



Finishing off the mechanical portion of our build is the Quick Fuel Technology Q Series Carburetor, in a 950 CFM size.

These carbs are offered in both race and street/strip models with CFM ranging from 650 to 1050. They recommend the Q-950 model for our Windsor. This starts with a 950 cfm Proform main body that is made from billet aluminum. This is a high end carb that features billet metering blocks and has a street price of around $650.

Quick Fuel also makes a variety of carbs designated for Street, Street/Strip, Drag racing and Circle Track depending on your engine combination. You really need to give them a call so they can spec out a carb for your exact combination. One of the best features of our carb was the fact that Quick Fuel set it up already with a great baseline setup for our engine:

Primary Main Jet: 78
Primary Nozzle: 33
Secondary Jet: 86
Secondary Nozzle: 35
Pri Idle Air Bleed: 70
Needle & Seat: 120
Hi Speed Bleed: 32
Power Valve: 4.5



The Finishing Touches

The last thing we needed to cap off our build was a set of valve covers and an air cleaner. We used Edelbrock’s new Victor Series Valve Covers and Air Cleaner. We are really in love with the finish on both of these parts. The valve covers are offered in two different sizes and fit most 302 and 351 Windsor-based engines.

These include breather holes on the driver side which we filled using a black satin breather to match. The air cleaner too comes in the black satin finish and is offered in two different sizes. Install on both of these were very straight forward and after a few more final checks, it was time for some completed photos.


The best part of the build in my mind, putting that last part on the engine.


Ready to be plugged into a Fox Body.


Looks good from all angles!

At this point many would expect to see use bolt this 408 up to an engine dyno to see what kind of power numbers it could produce. Not the case this time. We are going to stick this engine under the hood of a Fox Body Mustang, and then move it to our DynoJet to see what it can do. While we don’t expect to see any more than 500 hp at the wheels, that is still miles ahead of the tired old 5.0 L that was originally in our project car. Stay tuned as we plug this engine into the car and strap it up on the dyno!

Sources:

Ford Performance Solutions
Web: www.f-p-s.com
Phone: 714-773-9027

SRP/JE Pistons
Web: www.jepistons.com
Phone: 714-898-9764

Canton Racing Products
Web: www.cantonracingproducts.com
Phone: 203-481-9460

Edelbrock
Web: www.edelbrock.com
Phone: 310-781-2222

Quick Fuel
Web: www.quickfueltechnology.com
Phone: 270-793-0900

SCE Gaskets
Web: www.scegaskets.com
Phone: 661-728-9200

COMP Cams
Web: www.compcams.com
Phone: 1-800-999-0853

Harland Sharp Rocker Arms
Web: www.harlandsharp.com
Phone: 440-238-3260

Professional Products
Web: www.professional-products.com
Phone: 323-779-2020 ]]> One of the requests that we get over and over again is 'More Engine Builds'. Well, you got your wish with this build of a 550 hp 408ci small block Ford by Ford Performance Solutions featuring Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads. Owner Troy Bowen used his over 15 years of engine building experience and got in touch with the industry leaders to come up with a engine combination that would make 550+ hp, run on pump gas, and be fully streetable -- all without breaking the bank.







When building a custom-built stroker 351W - there are literally millions of options. From block decisions, to rotating assemblies, to cylinder heads; it's difficult to know where to start. We think a good place to start is a good reputable engine builder that spends his every week creating engine combinations from wild to mild. Our guy: Ford Performance Solution's Troy Bowen.



We gave Troy four basic parameters to work with when we started to blueprint out our 351W.



  1. Don't blow the budget, but don't scrimp. Make it affordable.

  2. Looking for 550-600 horsepower on pump gas

  3. Everything "off the shelf" No exotic or custom components.

  4. Use a carb and hydraulic cam.



We spoke with Troy for about an hour on the phone as he started to come up with a game plan. For the short-block, we would use a stock block 351W with a girdle to keep the price down, along with a steel crank and rods that would punch the engine out to 408 cubic inches. SRP pistons and JE Pro Seal rings would make an affordable 1-2 punch.



For the long-block, Troy selected a full compliment of Edelbrock goodies: CNC ported Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads, Edelbrock Super Victor Intake, plus Edelbrock valve covers and air cleaner. A Quick Fuel carb would top the intake.



Here is the quick run down on the parts we came up with.



Ford Performance Solutions’ 408 cubic inch Small Block Ford - Build Essentials



Block: Post 1971 351 W Block, .030 Over, Fully Machined by FPS

Crankshaft: RPM International, 4340 Nitrated, 4.00 Stroke, 2.100 Journals

Rods: RPM International, H-Beam 4340 Steel

Hardware: ARP Bolts

Pistons: JE SRP Professional Pistons

Piston Rings: JE Piston Rings; 1.2 mm top ring, 1.5 mm Napier 2nd ring, 3.0 mm oil ring

Oil Pan: Canton Oil Pan

Heads: Edelbrock Victor Jr Heads, CNC Ported by Edelbrock and Assembled

Intake Manifold: Edelbrock Super Victor Intake

Carburetor: Quick Fuel Carburetor

Gaskets: SCE Gaskets

Camshaft: Comp Cams Xtreme Energy Camshaft; Lift: .576 Intake, .600 Exhaust; Duration @ .050: 242 Intake, 248 Exhaust; Lobe Separation: 110.0

Lifters: Comp Cams Lifters

Push Rods: Comp Cams Hi-Tech, 5/16" Diameter, 8.150" Length

Valve Springs: Comp Cams Valve Springs

Rocker Arms: Harland Sharp Rocker arms

Balancer: Professional Products Balancer

Extra Goodies: FPS Girdle, for increased bottom end support; Edelbrock Valve Covers & Air Cleaner, for good looks!







The Short Block:



For this build, building a short block around a good used block made sense. We chose a premium early casting that was in good shape. Especially when you consider the prep that goes into these block when they come into FPS. Not only do they get a shinny new paint job at the end of it all, time is spent hot tanking, magafluxing, cleaning, and honing every surface to insure the blocks rigidity.



"Prepping the block is a big step in building an engine. It is the foundation of which everything is mounted to, and it takes the most abuse during combustion," Bowen explained. We were confident that this block would hold up to the power we are expecting to see from this engine, and more so. This block should be good to around 600-675 hp.







FPS set us up with a post 1971 Windsor blocks, and for a good reason. "In 1972 Ford decided to battle emission standards by lowering the compression ratio of these blocks. Instead of redesigning the engine, they simply casted the block with a taller deck height. That means we can squeeze more cubic inches out of our small block," explained Bowen.





FPS bored the walls of each cylinder out .030 over, bringing the total cylinder bore to 4.030 inches.







Camshaft



For the camshaft in this engine, we went with COMP Cams. COMP does a really nice job selecting the right cam for any engine. So when we told them about the rest of the components we were using, they fired over one of their Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts. We spoke to Chris Mays from COMP to get all the facts on why this cam would work well with our engine.



Chris explained, “when deciding which cam to use in a street/strip car, you first have to decide how much ‘street’ you want out of the engine. That will determine how aggressive the cam can be made.” If your car has a stick, then you can have any "stall" speed you wish. (You simple press the clutch in and rev the engine to the desired speed.) COMP recommended a 3,000 RPM "stall" speed that their cam part number: 35-427-8 uses. This cam works very well with bolt on modifications such as headers, which is something most Fox owners have. It has a little bit of a rough idle, but again that because we wanted a little less ‘street’ out of our engine.



Here are the other specs on the cam:

  • Intake Duration at .050": 242

  • Exhaust Duration at .050": 248

  • Intake Valve Lift: .576

  • Exhaust Valve Lift: .600





The Bottom End - Crankshaft, Pistons and Rods



Going in right under the cam was a 4340 nitrated crankshaft from RPM International. This crank will spin our pistons to the tune of a 4.000 inch stroke. With 2.100 inch journals, this crank was right at home in our Windsor block.







To help stiffen the bottom end of our short block, FPS set us up with one of their Premium Main Girdles. This billet chro-moly piece ties all five mains together to help prevent crank walk and keeps the main webbing of the block intact. Troy clams that this girdle increases the strength and stability of the lower end of the block by 40%.





We then stuck on a COMP Cams Timing Chain Set. This gear has three keys to provide any adjustment we might need.







SRP Pistons by JE



We chose a set of SRP Professional Pistons that will be sealed to the cylinder walls via a set of JE pistons rings. We went with a flat top piston to work with our naturally aspirated set up. These pistons are forged from 4032 aluminum alloy that reduces the piston-to-wall clearance and will give us a quite stroke.



FPS fitted them with JE Pro Seal 1.2 mm top ring, 1.5 mm Napier 2nd ring, and a 3.0 mm for the oil ring. The 1.2 mm top ring is a design that SRP took from modern engines and retrofitted them to work with our older small block. It give us a more durable ring package that will help keep our engine out of the repair shop.



SRP Professional Piston JE Ring Package:

  • 1.2 mm Top Ring

  • 1.5 mm 2nd Ring

  • 3.0 mm Oil Ring





Tying the pistons to the crankshaft, are 8 RPM International Rods. These rods are an H-Beam design that are forged 4340 steel. They are designed to use ARP’s 8740 Cap Screws which are a 7/16th bolt that is designed to hold up to 200,000 psi - more than enough for this application.







Oil Pan



To seal the oil pan, and all other areas requiring a gasket, we used SCE Gaskets. SEC has gaskets and kits of gaskets for a number of late model and classic engines. This makes it easy when ordering as you are always sure you have the right gasket for your application.







To hold the oil under the block, we went with a Canton Racing Products street/strip oil pan. The pan has an extra deep sump that measures 9 inch deep by 7 inch long sump that gives this pan a total oil capacity of 7 quarts. It also helps this aluminum pan catch as much air as possible passing under the car to help cool the oil waiting to be cycled throughout the engine. There is a provision for one of Canton’s Pan Mounted Dipsticks, that way we can see exactly how much oil is in the pan.



Lifters - COMP Retro Fit Kit



Being that the cam we are using is a hydraulic roller cam, you die hard Ford fans will note that the 302 engine family, including the 351 Windsor, did not come with a hydraulic roller cam option. You would be correct. So why are we sliding a hydraulic cam into an engine not designed to use one?







Hydraulic cams are able to outlast and now recently, out perform their flat tappet counterparts. “If you can have your cake and eat it too, that’s always a bonus,” as Chris says. COMP Cams is aware of this and that is the reason they developed a kit that allows you to slide in a hydraulic roller into these older engines that were not designed to accept them. The kit we used features a spider like designed support bracket that screws into the bottom of the lifter valley.







Once the bracket is installed, we moved right into the install of the lifters. The lifters we used were specifically designed for use on a hydraulic roller cam. The High Energy lifters are an OE style design and will work perfectly with our camshaft. They installed very quickly as all we had to do was drop them in and tighten down the bracket once and for all.







Balancer



To keep our rotating mass in balance, we installed a PRW Performance Quotient Series Fluid Damper. Inside this piece, is a steel inertia ring that is encapsulated by high viscosity silicone gel. The ring floats in the get to reduce engine harmonics across the RPM band. Outside are easy to read timing marks and the ever important SFI approved marking.



The Long Block: Edelbrock Victor JR CNC Heads







For our Ford, we wanted to build a really trick set of heads so we could really pump some power out. We started out with Edelbrock’s Victor Jr Heads that were completed CNC Ported by Edelbrock.



These heads leave the spark plugs and the valves in the stock general location, but everything else has been tweaked for more performance. We got in touch with Rick Roberts, an Engineer from Edelbrock, to find out more about these heads.







Edelbrock CNC ports the intake and exhaust ports on these heads to a smooth 210 cc on the intake side, and 75 cc for the exhaust. The entries and exits are CNC matched to the gasket and blended from there. The overall total combustion chamber on the Victor Jr’s were 60 cc on our application, but Edelbrock also has a 70 cc version for those running turbos or other forms of forced induction.



These heads are the key to how this engine is going to make big power. "It all comes down to air demand," says Roberts on the sizes of the runners and combustion chambers, "These would work great with a small engine turning a lot of RPM or a big engine at moderate RPM. This head could be on a dedicated strip engine or equally at home on a street engine." FPS confirmed this as well. "These heads will really shine the higher the RPMs go with the size engine we built," says Bowen. Those large runners and smooth transitions will make getting the air fuel mix into the engine easy, that means less power lost in the engine and more for the tires.



Our heads came complete with valves already installed, but Edelbrock also has a version bare if you have your own special valvetrain to add. Our valves measured 2.05 on the intake, and 1.60 for the exhaust. We used a set of COMP’s dual springs to provide the closing power for our valves. COMP recommended a 160 lb. 1.880 spring for use on the intake valve and, a 3.95 lb. 1.35 spring for the exhaust.







FPS was kind enough to bolt the heads up to the Super Flow 600 flow bench they have at FPS to see what they would do. The results were very nice. Check out the results on the flow graph. Keep in mind that these tests were done with no pipes bolted up to the exhaust ports. Doing so would add 15-20 CFM.





Here is the flow graph from our heads.



Valvetrain - Harland Sharp



To really get these heads rocken, we choose Harland Sharp Victor Jr specific shaft style rocker arms. We spoke with Randy Becker, Jr of Harland Sharp to get the facts on the shaft style rocker arms.



“Shaft style rocker arms offer improved stability and eliminate flex in the rocker stud and girdle," said Becker. "It lets you push the limits of the cam in high-lift race engines.” He also went on and explained how shaft style rocker arms offer more material in the mounts and other components compared to stud mount rocker arms.



"It also gives better geometry, which is why a shaft system can last longer in a high RPM engine." Made sense to us. Plus, more valve lift due to less deflection is a bonus. Although our engine did not have a radical cam, this is insurance for the present, and gives us a stout rocker arm for the future.







Made from 2024 aluminum T3511, these rocker arms are very rigid. We stuck with the Ford 1.6 rocker arm ratio for our Windsor. When selecting what ratio you should run, Randy says pick your cam first. Then pick up the cam card and give them a call. They will help you select the right set of rocker arms and the ratio for them using the info about the cam.







Capping off our valve train was 16 pushrods from COMP. Their Hi-Tech Pushrods are a one piece design that is made from chrome molly. We selected their standard length offering in a 5/16 inch size to work with our Victor Jrs. They slid right in as we started to mate the rocker arms with the heads.







Intake Manifold: Edelbrock Super Victor 351W



To distribute the air fuel mixture to each cylinder, we went with the Edelbrock Super Victor Intake. This aluminum intake is designed to work exceptionally well with after market heads such as the Victor Jr Heads we are using. The runners are a 3.20 square-inch cross sectional design. This intake works well for everything from a high RPM race engine to the 6,500 RPM big Windsor we are using.



Carburetor







Finishing off the mechanical portion of our build is the Quick Fuel Technology Q Series Carburetor, in a 950 CFM size.



These carbs are offered in both race and street/strip models with CFM ranging from 650 to 1050. They recommend the Q-950 model for our Windsor. This starts with a 950 cfm Proform main body that is made from billet aluminum. This is a high end carb that features billet metering blocks and has a street price of around $650.



Quick Fuel also makes a variety of carbs designated for Street, Street/Strip, Drag racing and Circle Track depending on your engine combination. You really need to give them a call so they can spec out a carb for your exact combination. One of the best features of our carb was the fact that Quick Fuel set it up already with a great baseline setup for our engine:



Primary Main Jet: 78

Primary Nozzle: 33

Secondary Jet: 86

Secondary Nozzle: 35

Pri Idle Air Bleed: 70

Needle & Seat: 120

Hi Speed Bleed: 32

Power Valve: 4.5







The Finishing Touches



The last thing we needed to cap off our build was a set of valve covers and an air cleaner. We used Edelbrock’s new Victor Series Valve Covers and Air Cleaner. We are really in love with the finish on both of these parts. The valve covers are offered in two different sizes and fit most 302 and 351 Windsor-based engines.



These include breather holes on the driver side which we filled using a black satin breather to match. The air cleaner too comes in the black satin finish and is offered in two different sizes. Install on both of these were very straight forward and after a few more final checks, it was time for some completed photos.





The best part of the build in my mind, putting that last part on the engine.





Ready to be plugged into a Fox Body.





Looks good from all angles!



At this point many would expect to see use bolt this 408 up to an engine dyno to see what kind of power numbers it could produce. Not the case this time. We are going to stick this engine under the hood of a Fox Body Mustang, and then move it to our DynoJet to see what it can do. While we don’t expect to see any more than 500 hp at the wheels, that is still miles ahead of the tired old 5.0 L that was originally in our project car. Stay tuned as we plug this engine into the car and strap it up on the dyno!



Sources:



Ford Performance Solutions

Web: www.f-p-s.com

Phone: 714-773-9027



SRP/JE Pistons

Web: www.jepistons.com

Phone: 714-898-9764



Canton Racing Products

Web: www.cantonracingproducts.com

Phone: 203-481-9460



Edelbrock

Web: www.edelbrock.com

Phone: 310-781-2222



Quick Fuel

Web: www.quickfueltechnology.com

Phone: 270-793-0900



SCE Gaskets

Web: www.scegaskets.com

Phone: 661-728-9200



COMP Cams

Web: www.compcams.com

Phone: 1-800-999-0853



Harland Sharp Rocker Arms

Web: www.harlandsharp.com

Phone: 440-238-3260



Professional Products

Web: www.professional-products.com

Phone: 323-779-2020
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]]> Tech Articles powerjames http://www.stangtv.com/forum/building-nasty-408ci-sbf-fps-edelbrock-6096.html <![CDATA[Plumbing 101: Russell Teaches Us Hose & Fittings]]> http://www.stangtv.com/forum/plumbing-101-russell-teaches-us-hose-6094.html Mon, 09 Nov 2009 01:28:49 GMT Assembling a race car’s fuel system can be one enormous confusing headache, but it doesn't need to be. The hoses and fittings that you use in your vehicle are important because they supply its lifeblood, carrying all of the vital fluids from one place to another, and choosing the right plumbing components seem like a daunting task. The reality is, you can pick the right components the first time around, and in this video we are going to show you some tips on how to choose the proper hoses and fittings for your application with the help from the experts at Russell Performance.





History of Russell

Russell has been in business for over 25 years, and Edelbrock purchased the company in 2009 and raised the bar for Russell Performance by taking the steps to become ISO 9000 certified. Edelbrock is also working to expand Russell's product line - and since the acquisition, over 200 new parts have been added. They offer plumbing and hose options for many different fluid systems in your ride, including fuel, oil, brake, water, and nitrous. Racers such as Billy Glidden, Pat Musi and Jim Hairston all rely on Russell Performance products to get them down the 1320.

To understand the basics of hoses and plumbing, watch the video above. But if you want some more general information, tips, and tricks, check out some of our notes.

Types of Hose Offered by Russell

Russell Performance offers four types of hose to cover all your needs. Let's take a look at them:

ProFlex / ProRace

Russell's ProFlex and ProRace hoses are constructed with a stainless steel outer braid that resists abrasion and corrosion. They both have a chlorinated polyethylene synthetic rubber liner with a nylon inner braid, which will not collapse under extreme heat - yet it is extremely flexible.



Additionally, the ProRace hose has a specially formulated CPE synthetic inner liner that is embedded with a partial coverage stainless steel inner braid, and bonded together by a full coverage stainless outer braid. This construction gives the ProRace hose 50 percent more strength.

"The traditional ProFlex braided stainless steel is still the most popular," according to Snyder. "It is designed to work in extreme applications. As it is routed under the vehicle and exposed to the elements, the stainless steel outer jacket is still flexible enough for easy routing, but also durable enough to deliver years of service."

Pro Classic

The Pro Classic is for racers and performance enthusiasts who want high quality plumbing that is lighter and easier to assemble than traditional braided steel hose. It features a lightweight nylon fiber outer braid over a durable rubber core, with a maximum pressure rating of 350 psi. The Pro Classic can handle nearly every plumbing task on your car, and is safe to use with fuel, oil, or antifreeze.


Here is the ProClassic hose we will be using for most of the plumbing on Project Grandma.

"ProClassic is our lightest and most durable hose," states Snyder. "It is approved for use in all major racing, including NHRA. This hose can reduce comparable weight by more than 20 percent over braided stainless steel, and it is easier to cut and assemble. The black nylon fabric outer braid is also a popular look. The ProClassic is very popular in the racing community due to its durability, weight and flexibility. However, I can’t say this is recommended across the board, as the braided stainless is great in any environment that may be a high friction area."

Twist-Lok

The Twist-Lok line is for the enthusiast looking for a quality performance hose, while wanting to save assembly time and money. Easy to assemble, flexible and lightweight, it is ideal for most applications where a stainless steel braided line is not necessary. This hose is pressure rated up to 250 psi and suitable for most fuel and oil systems. It was not designed, however, for use in power steering applications. Twist-Lok is approved by NHRA for use in competition in all classes.



PowerFlex

The PowerFlex power steering hose is the preferred choice for high pressure power steering lines. Russell recommends using it in conjunction with PowerFlex hose ends that are designed for these 1000+ PSI of pressure. A choice of power steering adapters, which allow the connection to most pumps, feed, pressure and return lines, is also available. While return line pressure is dramatically lower, using the same style line is probably a good idea.

Types of Fittings / Hose Ends

Now that you have the information needed to pick the best hose for your project, here are some notes about fitting types.

Full Flow

The Russell Full Flow hose ends are made from lightweight aluminum and are completely reusable. They feature a unique taper design ensuring easy assembly and also offer a 37° angled sealing surface, guaranteeing a positively leak-free seal. These Full Flow hose ends accept a wide variety of lightweight aluminum AN style adapter and carburetor fittings. Finally, these Russell fittings are interchangeable with many other manufacturers' hose ends.


Here are just a few of the fittings and hose ends we will be using on our project.

Full Flow Swivel hose ends swivel 360° to maximize hose installation, allowing for quick alignment of ends after hose assembly. These Full Flow Swivel hose ends are completely reusable and feature a unique taper design for ease of installation. Full Flow Swivel hose ends use mandrel bent tubing for superior flow, and are available in three different finishes.

Twist-Lok

Twist-Lok hose ends utilize Barb Technology. They are constructed of lightweight aluminum, and are 40 percent lighter than conventional hose ends. Twist-Lok hose ends are easy to assemble and work with any Russell AN adapter or carburetor fittings. Russell Twist-Lok Hose ends are available in red/blue anodize.

Stainless Steel Full Flow hose ends are constructed of 303 stainless steel, and are precision machined to ensure precise thread engagement and a tight seal. Russell's stainless steel hose ends and fittings also provide protection against corrosion. 303 stainless steel hose ends are the premium choice for all severe-duty applications, including: marine, street rods and race. These fittings work best with Russell's ProFlex, ProRace or ProClassic hoses.


A bulkhead fitting from Russell - these make it easy to run lines through a firewall.

PowerFlex

PowerFlex crimp fittings were designed for shop or retail store use. The ProClassic Crimp-On program makes hose fabrication both easy and profitable. Assembly only requires cutting the hose, pushing it together, fitting it, then crimping. Designed as a balanced hose assembly, the lightweight collar design is engineered by size for precise compression, ensuring end attachment. ProClassic 360° Swivel hose ends allow for quick alignment after assembly, and are not interchangeable with other brands. They are available in sizes -4 through -12, and are packaged complete with collar.

PowerFlex power steering hose ends with Endura (stainless steel look) finish are available in three different AN sizes (-6, -8 and -10). These hose ends are suitable for high pressure power steering use and are corrosion resistant.

Tube Seal

Tube Seal Hose Ends are designed to add that finishing hose end appearance, but as a hose clamp. These tube seals will fit anything from 1/4" vacuum hose to 3/4" heater hose, and are offered in four choices of colors: red, blue, chrome and black.

Specialty Hose Ends

If you have a fitting that is outside the normal realm, Russell's Specialty hose ends may be what you need. The Full Flow Swivel Pipe Thread hose ends allow the connection of fuel and oil lines without any additional adapters, simplifying the hose assembly. This aids in plumbing your dry sump system. By utilizing the Full Flow Swivel Dry Sump hose end, you eliminate the need for additional adapters, saving both time and money.


90 degree swivel pipe to thread specialty end.

The Full Flow Forged Swivel hose ends are manufactured from forged aluminum and are designed for use in a tight engine compartment. "The ID(s) of all Russell hose ends are common and consistent throughout the manufacturing process, so this consistency is equal in flow rate," Snyder says. "However, the style of attachment can affect the flow rates of the assembled hose and hose end. For example, the Full-Flow hose ends, which utilize Russell’s patented tapered design, eliminate the risk of loose hose debris in the flow area. That's because the smooth taper inserts into the hose cleanly, and the hose end clamps on the outer diameter of the hose. Hose ends with a barbed end, like the Twist-Lok, are biting the inside of the hose inner diameter for attachment. They can also loosen up the internal hose, creating slight flow interference."


Here are several different products Russell offers. You can see the Y-block with adapters, the fittings on the end of the hose, and the hose running from the fuel rails on Project Grandma.

Picking the Correct Hose

Now that we have the hose and fitting options covered, it is time to decide which one will work best for your application. You'll need to figure out what type of fluid the hose will be carrying, how much pressure the hose and fitting need to support, and what type of environment the hose will be exposed to. Additionally, if you will be racing your car, you will need parts that are in compliance the rules. Russell offers pre-made lines and kits for various applications and it would be a good idea to check these out, as well as the tools and accessories they offer.

Once you settle on the types of hoses and fittings that you need, write it all down, and make sure to include everything from fuel to power steering lines. More likely than not, you will discover that you've inadvertently left something out. Making a list will get you close to reaching your goal, and will save you some time in the long run.

The next step will be to work on the layout of where the lines will be run, and to verify clearance and fitment issues. Double-check the lengths before cutting the hose because if you cut too short, you may end up having to buy another roll.


The fuel tank and fuel filter are being fitted up for measurements. Once the measurements are taken, the hose assembly will begin.

Tips on Assembly

Here are some tips from Jason Snyder that you'll want to keep in mind when beginning your assembly.

"Always be careful when removing tape, as you do not want to pull the braid away from the inner core," advises Snyder. "When attaching the socket, be sure you turn the (socket or hose) in a counter rotation, as the socket has left-hand threads to hold the hose during assembly. Using a punch or Phillips screwdriver is an easy way to resize the inner core of the hose. This will allow the nipple assembly to start easier, and will assure you don’t push the hose out of the socket. Also, on ProClassic hose, be sure not push the hose up into the threaded part of the socket."

If you are using the ProClassic or Twist-Loc hose, it can be cut cleanly with a pair of shears or razor blade cutter. Just make sure that your cut is straight and square, to help save yourself from headaches later on. If you are using a stainless wrapped hose like the ProFlex or ProRace, you will want to wrap the hose in electrical tape prior to cutting.

Next, you will want to place the hose in a vise and cut with a cut-off wheel or a hacksaw with two blades opposing each other. Again, keep the cut straight and square when cutting your hose.


Here you can see the hose wrapped nice and tight with some tape.

Now that you have your hose cut to the proper length, we will move on to installing the hose ends. If you are using the Full Flow hose ends, you will want to install some soft jaws on your vise to hold the fittings, to prevent causing any scratches or damage. You will need to disassemble the hose end first, then put the socket in the vise with the soft jaws.


The soft jaws in the vise and the fitting assembly starting.

Next, slide the hose into the socket while turning counterclockwise, until the hose bottoms out in the fitting. With the fitting turned around in the vise and the hose out of your way, apply some Russell assembly lube to the nipple of the fitting. Using a wrench, turn the fitting until there is less then 1/16 of an inch between the nipple and the socket.


Using an AN wrench to tighten the fitting assembly.

Repeat the steps on the opposite end of your hose. When you're finished, flush the inside of the hose out with a solvent or soapy water, then dry it. Your hose is now completed.


A completed hose with fittings on both ends, ready to go in Project Grandma.

Assembling a Twist-Lok End

If you have chosen the Twist-Lok hose ends, the process is a bit different. The Twist-Lok uses a barbed hose end, which you will have to push into the hose. As you are pushing it into the hose, you will use a twisting action until the hex is even with the hose. Repeat for the opposite end of the hose, clean the assembly out, and you're ready to go.


Mike is taking extra care running the Russell lines throughout Project Grandma. You want to make sure there is no rubbing, chaffing or extreme heat on the hose.

Hosed with Knowledge

In the course of filming the video and writing the notes for the article, we have learned that Russell Products offers everything you need to plumb any system in you daily driver, street car, race car, tow truck or any other vehicle you have. They offer quality products, which are made in America and fit almost every need. All products are covered under a manufacturer's warranty to cover any defects, and they are backed by one of the biggest companies in aftermarket performance - Edelbrock.

We installed a complete Edelbrock fuel system on our Project Grandma, and so far, Grandma's plumbing and fittings have performed flawlessly. So when the time comes for you to replace your hoses, fittings, or hose ends, be sure to check out what Russell Performance has to offer.

In fact, if you want to check out our video on installing Edelbrock Russell product in Grandma, click play below!



Source:

Russell Performance
Web: www.russellperformance.com
Phone: (310) 781-2222 ]]> Assembling a race car’s fuel system can be one enormous confusing headache, but it doesn't need to be. The hoses and fittings that you use in your vehicle are important because they supply its lifeblood, carrying all of the vital fluids from one place to another, and choosing the right plumbing components seem like a daunting task. The reality is, you can pick the right components the first time around, and in this video we are going to show you some tips on how to choose the proper hoses and fittings for your application with the help from the experts at Russell Performance.











History of Russell



Russell has been in business for over 25 years, and Edelbrock purchased the company in 2009 and raised the bar for Russell Performance by taking the steps to become ISO 9000 certified. Edelbrock is also working to expand Russell's product line - and since the acquisition, over 200 new parts have been added. They offer plumbing and hose options for many different fluid systems in your ride, including fuel, oil, brake, water, and nitrous. Racers such as Billy Glidden, Pat Musi and Jim Hairston all rely on Russell Performance products to get them down the 1320.



To understand the basics of hoses and plumbing, watch the video above. But if you want some more general information, tips, and tricks, check out some of our notes.



Types of Hose Offered by Russell



Russell Performance offers four types of hose to cover all your needs. Let's take a look at them:



ProFlex / ProRace



Russell's ProFlex and ProRace hoses are constructed with a stainless steel outer braid that resists abrasion and corrosion. They both have a chlorinated polyethylene synthetic rubber liner with a nylon inner braid, which will not collapse under extreme heat - yet it is extremely flexible.







Additionally, the ProRace hose has a specially formulated CPE synthetic inner liner that is embedded with a partial coverage stainless steel inner braid, and bonded together by a full coverage stainless outer braid. This construction gives the ProRace hose 50 percent more strength.



"The traditional ProFlex braided stainless steel is still the most popular," according to Snyder. "It is designed to work in extreme applications. As it is routed under the vehicle and exposed to the elements, the stainless steel outer jacket is still flexible enough for easy routing, but also durable enough to deliver years of service."



Pro Classic



The Pro Classic is for racers and performance enthusiasts who want high quality plumbing that is lighter and easier to assemble than traditional braided steel hose. It features a lightweight nylon fiber outer braid over a durable rubber core, with a maximum pressure rating of 350 psi. The Pro Classic can handle nearly every plumbing task on your car, and is safe to use with fuel, oil, or antifreeze.





Here is the ProClassic hose we will be using for most of the plumbing on Project Grandma.



"ProClassic is our lightest and most durable hose," states Snyder. "It is approved for use in all major racing, including NHRA. This hose can reduce comparable weight by more than 20 percent over braided stainless steel, and it is easier to cut and assemble. The black nylon fabric outer braid is also a popular look. The ProClassic is very popular in the racing community due to its durability, weight and flexibility. However, I can’t say this is recommended across the board, as the braided stainless is great in any environment that may be a high friction area."



Twist-Lok



The Twist-Lok line is for the enthusiast looking for a quality performance hose, while wanting to save assembly time and money. Easy to assemble, flexible and lightweight, it is ideal for most applications where a stainless steel braided line is not necessary. This hose is pressure rated up to 250 psi and suitable for most fuel and oil systems. It was not designed, however, for use in power steering applications. Twist-Lok is approved by NHRA for use in competition in all classes.







PowerFlex



The PowerFlex power steering hose is the preferred choice for high pressure power steering lines. Russell recommends using it in conjunction with PowerFlex hose ends that are designed for these 1000+ PSI of pressure. A choice of power steering adapters, which allow the connection to most pumps, feed, pressure and return lines, is also available. While return line pressure is dramatically lower, using the same style line is probably a good idea.



Types of Fittings / Hose Ends



Now that you have the information needed to pick the best hose for your project, here are some notes about fitting types.



Full Flow



The Russell Full Flow hose ends are made from lightweight aluminum and are completely reusable. They feature a unique taper design ensuring easy assembly and also offer a 37° angled sealing surface, guaranteeing a positively leak-free seal. These Full Flow hose ends accept a wide variety of lightweight aluminum AN style adapter and carburetor fittings. Finally, these Russell fittings are interchangeable with many other manufacturers' hose ends.





Here are just a few of the fittings and hose ends we will be using on our project.



Full Flow Swivel hose ends swivel 360° to maximize hose installation, allowing for quick alignment of ends after hose assembly. These Full Flow Swivel hose ends are completely reusable and feature a unique taper design for ease of installation. Full Flow Swivel hose ends use mandrel bent tubing for superior flow, and are available in three different finishes.



Twist-Lok



Twist-Lok hose ends utilize Barb Technology. They are constructed of lightweight aluminum, and are 40 percent lighter than conventional hose ends. Twist-Lok hose ends are easy to assemble and work with any Russell AN adapter or carburetor fittings. Russell Twist-Lok Hose ends are available in red/blue anodize.



Stainless Steel Full Flow hose ends are constructed of 303 stainless steel, and are precision machined to ensure precise thread engagement and a tight seal. Russell's stainless steel hose ends and fittings also provide protection against corrosion. 303 stainless steel hose ends are the premium choice for all severe-duty applications, including: marine, street rods and race. These fittings work best with Russell's ProFlex, ProRace or ProClassic hoses.





A bulkhead fitting from Russell - these make it easy to run lines through a firewall.



PowerFlex



PowerFlex crimp fittings were designed for shop or retail store use. The ProClassic Crimp-On program makes hose fabrication both easy and profitable. Assembly only requires cutting the hose, pushing it together, fitting it, then crimping. Designed as a balanced hose assembly, the lightweight collar design is engineered by size for precise compression, ensuring end attachment. ProClassic 360° Swivel hose ends allow for quick alignment after assembly, and are not interchangeable with other brands. They are available in sizes -4 through -12, and are packaged complete with collar.



PowerFlex power steering hose ends with Endura (stainless steel look) finish are available in three different AN sizes (-6, -8 and -10). These hose ends are suitable for high pressure power steering use and are corrosion resistant.



Tube Seal



Tube Seal Hose Ends are designed to add that finishing hose end appearance, but as a hose clamp. These tube seals will fit anything from 1/4" vacuum hose to 3/4" heater hose, and are offered in four choices of colors: red, blue, chrome and black.



Specialty Hose Ends



If you have a fitting that is outside the normal realm, Russell's Specialty hose ends may be what you need. The Full Flow Swivel Pipe Thread hose ends allow the connection of fuel and oil lines without any additional adapters, simplifying the hose assembly. This aids in plumbing your dry sump system. By utilizing the Full Flow Swivel Dry Sump hose end, you eliminate the need for additional adapters, saving both time and money.





90 degree swivel pipe to thread specialty end.



The Full Flow Forged Swivel hose ends are manufactured from forged aluminum and are designed for use in a tight engine compartment. "The ID(s) of all Russell hose ends are common and consistent throughout the manufacturing process, so this consistency is equal in flow rate," Snyder says. "However, the style of attachment can affect the flow rates of the assembled hose and hose end. For example, the Full-Flow hose ends, which utilize Russell’s patented tapered design, eliminate the risk of loose hose debris in the flow area. That's because the smooth taper inserts into the hose cleanly, and the hose end clamps on the outer diameter of the hose. Hose ends with a barbed end, like the Twist-Lok, are biting the inside of the hose inner diameter for attachment. They can also loosen up the internal hose, creating slight flow interference."





Here are several different products Russell offers. You can see the Y-block with adapters, the fittings on the end of the hose, and the hose running from the fuel rails on Project Grandma.



Picking the Correct Hose



Now that we have the hose and fitting options covered, it is time to decide which one will work best for your application. You'll need to figure out what type of fluid the hose will be carrying, how much pressure the hose and fitting need to support, and what type of environment the hose will be exposed to. Additionally, if you will be racing your car, you will need parts that are in compliance the rules. Russell offers pre-made lines and kits for various applications and it would be a good idea to check these out, as well as the tools and accessories they offer.



Once you settle on the types of hoses and fittings that you need, write it all down, and make sure to include everything from fuel to power steering lines. More likely than not, you will discover that you've inadvertently left something out. Making a list will get you close to reaching your goal, and will save you some time in the long run.



The next step will be to work on the layout of where the lines will be run, and to verify clearance and fitment issues. Double-check the lengths before cutting the hose because if you cut too short, you may end up having to buy another roll.





The fuel tank and fuel filter are being fitted up for measurements. Once the measurements are taken, the hose assembly will begin.



Tips on Assembly



Here are some tips from Jason Snyder that you'll want to keep in mind when beginning your assembly.



"Always be careful when removing tape, as you do not want to pull the braid away from the inner core," advises Snyder. "When attaching the socket, be sure you turn the (socket or hose) in a counter rotation, as the socket has left-hand threads to hold the hose during assembly. Using a punch or Phillips screwdriver is an easy way to resize the inner core of the hose. This will allow the nipple assembly to start easier, and will assure you don’t push the hose out of the socket. Also, on ProClassic hose, be sure not push the hose up into the threaded part of the socket."



If you are using the ProClassic or Twist-Loc hose, it can be cut cleanly with a pair of shears or razor blade cutter. Just make sure that your cut is straight and square, to help save yourself from headaches later on. If you are using a stainless wrapped hose like the ProFlex or ProRace, you will want to wrap the hose in electrical tape prior to cutting.



Next, you will want to place the hose in a vise and cut with a cut-off wheel or a hacksaw with two blades opposing each other. Again, keep the cut straight and square when cutting your hose.





Here you can see the hose wrapped nice and tight with some tape.



Now that you have your hose cut to the proper length, we will move on to installing the hose ends. If you are using the Full Flow hose ends, you will want to install some soft jaws on your vise to hold the fittings, to prevent causing any scratches or damage. You will need to disassemble the hose end first, then put the socket in the vise with the soft jaws.





The soft jaws in the vise and the fitting assembly starting.



Next, slide the hose into the socket while turning counterclockwise, until the hose bottoms out in the fitting. With the fitting turned around in the vise and the hose out of your way, apply some Russell assembly lube to the nipple of the fitting. Using a wrench, turn the fitting until there is less then 1/16 of an inch between the nipple and the socket.





Using an AN wrench to tighten the fitting assembly.



Repeat the steps on the opposite end of your hose. When you're finished, flush the inside of the hose out with a solvent or soapy water, then dry it. Your hose is now completed.





A completed hose with fittings on both ends, ready to go in Project Grandma.



Assembling a Twist-Lok End



If you have chosen the Twist-Lok hose ends, the process is a bit different. The Twist-Lok uses a barbed hose end, which you will have to push into the hose. As you are pushing it into the hose, you will use a twisting action until the hex is even with the hose. Repeat for the opposite end of the hose, clean the assembly out, and you're ready to go.





Mike is taking extra care running the Russell lines throughout Project Grandma. You want to make sure there is no rubbing, chaffing or extreme heat on the hose.



Hosed with Knowledge



In the course of filming the video and writing the notes for the article, we have learned that Russell Products offers everything you need to plumb any system in you daily driver, street car, race car, tow truck or any other vehicle you have. They offer quality products, which are made in America and fit almost every need. All products are covered under a manufacturer's warranty to cover any defects, and they are backed by one of the biggest companies in aftermarket performance - Edelbrock.



We installed a complete Edelbrock fuel system on our Project Grandma, and so far, Grandma's plumbing and fittings have performed flawlessly. So when the time comes for you to replace your hoses, fittings, or hose ends, be sure to check out what Russell Performance has to offer.



In fact, if you want to check out our video on installing Edelbrock Russell product in Grandma, click play below!







Source:



Russell Performance

Web: www.russellperformance.com

Phone: (310) 781-2222
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]]> Tech Articles powerjames http://www.stangtv.com/forum/plumbing-101-russell-teaches-us-hose-6094.html <![CDATA[Inside Dart's new SHP Small Block Ford Block]]> http://www.stangtv.com/forum/inside-darts-new-shp-small-block-6093.html Mon, 09 Nov 2009 00:02:43 GMT Ford's 302 small block has had a strong performance following since its official debut in 1967 and during the last decade, the Ford small block has become a major player in all performance circles. A number of companies, including Ford Racing, World Products, and Dart, have developed stronger racing and street blocks to match enthusiasts' tremendous thirst for power.

However, with the release of the Dart SHP Small Block Ford Block, Dart is attempting to take the small block Ford to new levels of performance for street-worthy prices. We recently had the opportunity to personally check out Dart's SHP Ford block at their Troy, Michigan facility and we were so impressed with the product, that we ordered one for an upcoming project!





With over ninety million having been built, the Chevy small block is still the king of the hill and dominates the aftermarket, but the Ford small block has been gathering momentum. The late model Mustang has been a major contributor to both the 302 small block Ford’s popularity and marketability. Once labeled “too expensive” to build (as compared to a Chevy), prices on quality, go-fast Ford parts have become more affordable.

Pro Stock Technology in Every SHP Block

Troy, Michigan-based Dart Machinery is a leader in the industry, and offers a full line of Ford small blocks to both the entry-level enthusiast and the professional racer alike. Dart’s owner and longtime race engine builder, Richard Maskin, works hard to keep his company on the radar of Ford enthusiasts. Walk through any NMRA event and ask competitors what block they are running, and you’ll find that Dart is well represented in the push rod classes. Maskin has been the engine builder and tuner behind three NHRA Pro Stock championships. In addition to his success on the track, he consults with the best Ford engine builders in the country for feedback and new ideas in block technology.


All SHP Ford blocks are made in the USA. Castings are done in Mid-West foundries and machined at Dart's Detroit facilities.

Dart’s latest SHP (Special High Performance) Ford small block shows how serious they are about being the source for high performance engine blocks, cylinder heads, and now complete short block assemblies.

SHP an Alternative to Mass Produced, Factory Crate Engines

The need for an entry-level performance Dart block reared its head at the PRI show several years ago. A longtime Dart customer brought Maskin one of the big “Detroit Three” performance catalogs and had a discussion about the expanding number of performance crate engines available. “Performance” crate engines, whose components are often produced using offshore foundries, offshore machining operations, and are assembled on high-volume assembly lines.


Dart realized that 302 and 351 blocks were becoming rare and other so-called “performance blocks” were lacking in content, so they created the SHP block.

This farming out/mass production process by the OEMs is necessary to attain competitive prices, but there are tradeoffs that arise when exchanging quality for quantity. After additional research and customer feedback, Maskin saw the need for a high quality, affordable American-built Ford block that would serve multiple customers' needs.

Dart's main goal with the new SHP block was to help local performance engine shops retake a share of the crate engine market, which has been taken over by the mail order madness that's swept through the performance industry. Back in the day, before the Internet and mail order giants, local engine shops were the experts on performance engine builds.


Dart, ever the performance patriot, is leading the charge to offer a quality block, in order to help the “mom and pop” engine builder develop crate engines. That way, small shops will be able compete with the factory built, mass produced units.

In addition to crate engines, Dart saw the market potential for a high quality Ford cast iron small block that would provide a better option than junkyard blocks. Realizing salvaged 302 and 351 blocks were becoming rare and other so called “performance blocks” were lacking in content, Dart created the SHP block.

After years of research and development, the SHP Ford small block is an affordable foundation for any Ford enthusiast. The SHP block eliminates the time and expense of finding, cleaning, machining and prepping a junkyard Ford small block (which may turn out to be a boat anchor after machine shop preparation). Even if you can find a usable core, the cost of rebuilding and blueprinting a junkyard block doesn’t make sense.

By the time a customer buys a used block and has it cleaned, pressure checked, decked, bored, and honed with a torque plate, the cost is higher than a brand-new SHP block that's already been machined to precise tolerances. With the SHP block, you simply unpack it from the shipping box, finish hone the cylinders, and it's ready to assemble.


The new Dart Ford SHP block is a performance upgrade from a factory Ford small block, and features many Dart race block updates.

Dart’s new Ford SHP small block is intended for the street/strip enthusiast and is capable of producing 600 – 700 horsepower. Its affordable $1,700 price tag (hundreds of dollars less than a full race block) and high-performance features make it an ideal block for a street machine, weekend bracket racer, oval track engine, off road truck, or performance marine application.

The new Dart Ford SHP block fits in between an original factory Ford 302 small block and a dedicated race block like Dart's Iron Eagle Sportsman block.
• The SHP block is stronger than a stock piece, and has thicker cylinder walls that can safely accommodate up to a 4.185" bore.

• Dart SHP block features scalloped water jackets around each cylinder barrel, so there is excellent coolant flow around the cylinders.

• While the block has street/strip credentials, it’s not intended for applications over 700 horsepower and is not designed to be a true race block. So don’t go throwing three stages of nitrous or 40 pounds of boost at it and expect it to live a long life.
SHP Block Engineered to Save You Money

Developed by Maskin and the Dart engineering team, the SHP block combines the traditional dimensions of the Ford small block with advanced technology developed after years of competition at the track. The SHP block is compatible with all stock Ford small block components – but it’s far superior to any OEM engine block. The SHP block incorporates advanced performance features that are not available in any mass produced production casting.

The Ford SHP block is designed to fit the most popular Ford small block performance applications, with an optional 8.200” (302 cubic inches) or 9.500” (351 cubic inches) deck height. You also have a choice of 4.00” or 4.125” siamesed cylinder bores. The bores can safely be bored to 4.185” for large cubic inch projects.


Billet splayed 4-bolt main caps and thick main webs are stronger than anything the Ford factory offers.

On the bottom end of the SHP Ford block, 4-bolt splayed billet steel main caps are used on the center three main journals. The inner main cap bolts are 1/2 inch diameter, while the outer main cap bolts are 7/16 inch diameter. The outer bolts are splayed to anchor the caps securely to the strongest part of the block. The end caps feature 2-bolt billet steel caps with beefy 1/2 inch bolts, and will clear the majority of Ford small block oil pans. Given the strength and rigidity of the bottom end, you’ll have no problem with the crankshaft walking around during high loads or rapid acceleration / deceleration.

For those who want to build a big cubic inch Ford small block, Dart has set the maximum recommended stroke at 3.500”. The maximum stroke, combined with a maximum bore of 4.185”, equals 385 maximum cubic inches on the 302-based SHP block.


Extended cylinder bores accommodate stroked cranks up to 3.500" and provide piston support at the bottom stroke.

The SHP block was also designed with extended cylinder bores to accommodate long crankshaft strokes, and offers more piston support during bottom stroke of the piston. This is a feature that you won't find in so-called performance factory blocks. For those weight conscious car builders, the Dart SHP 4.000” bore block weighs approximately 175 lbs, and the 4.125” bore block weighs 165 lbs.

When designing the SHP, Dart included many high-end features that will benefit a performance engine build, and omitted features that are more specific to an all-out race engine:

The SHP block has a true priority main oiling system. With the true priority main oiling design, engine oil is pumped to the main bearings first, then routed to the camshaft and on to the top of the motor. In a production block, the main oil gallery is above the camshaft, however in the SHP block, it's relocated to the side of the camshaft tunnel. In the SHP block, pressurized oil is sent directly from the oil gallery to the main bearings, rather than being routed around the cam bearings like a production block.

It does not have a front oil crossover or provisions for a dry sump system - that's only required for a dedicated race engine.


SHP block uses OE style lifters, guides and retainers. Aftermarket lifters may also be used.

In addition to oiling updates, the SHP block has provisions for OEM-style roller lifters, as well as OEM tie bar retainers and retainer plate. The OE lifter compatibility can save a customer hundreds of dollars on an engine build. The OEM-type lifters are much less expensive than aftermarket conversion hydraulic roller lifters, and they work well with a high-performance camshaft profile.

If your application requires aftermarket lifters, the block is designed to accommodate most aftermarket lifter designs. Another top end feature is the blind 1/2 inch head bolts that don’t extend into the water jackets. This stiffens the deck surface, increases the clamping load on the head gasket, and eliminates coolant seepage around the head bolts. You don't need sealer on the bolt threads - just lubricant.


SHP blocks are machined and finished by the same experts that work on Dart's Pro Stock race blocks.

All SHP blocks are made in America, using Dart’s proprietary tooling and casting techniques. The blocks are cast by one of Dart’s Mid-West foundry contractors, and then machined in Dart’s own Detroit area machining facility. After the block returns to Dart from the foundry, it’s precision machined to exact tolerances in Dart’s dedicated CNC machining center. The same technicians and tooling that machines Dart’s high-dollar Pro Stock race blocks are used on every SHP Ford small block. Dart uses the same Makino CNC machining centers and machinists to produce all blocks. This is a quality control process most manufactures cannot brag about.

The SHP Ford block is shipped from Dart’s Troy, Michigan facility, ready to assemble right out of the box (after a light honing of the cylinder bores for piston clearance).

SHP Short Block Assemblies

In addition to the base SHP Ford block, Dart is now offering a complete SHP short block assembly in a variety of options. The basic Ford SHP short block retails for around $3,500 and is competitively priced, considering the experts at Dart are assembling the parts. These SHP short blocks feature individually balanced crankshafts, connecting rods, pistons, file-fit moly rings and coated cam bearings.

The standard Ford SHP short block utilizes a cast steel 3.400-inch crankshaft, and a forged 4340 steel crankshaft is available as an upgrade. For connecting rods, the base SHP Ford short block is shipped with forged 4340 steel I-beam rods, with an optional high performance H-beam rod available for an additional cost. For pistons, the SHP short-block features hypereutectic slugs, with an optional forged piston for nitrous or boosted applications.


SHP short blocks are assembled in Dart's own engine assembly room, by the same team that assembles Dart's race engines.


Dart supplies and assembles the block, crankshaft, pistons, rods, and rings for the SHP short block. All of the components are designed to work together so there aren't any surprises.

All Dart SHP Ford Short Blocks are assembled by the same engine team that builds Dart's championship winning Pro Stock engines - no mass produced assembly line units here.

The SHP Ford short block assemblies are a great alternative to mass produced crate motors, because they keep the local speed shops and engine builders in the business. Dart supplies and assembles the basic SHP short block components – the block, crankshaft, pistons, rods, and rings. Because Dart buys the parts in quantity, the price is very reasonable, and all of the components are designed to work together so there aren't any surprises. A local shop can finish the engine with a Dart top end kit that includes the cylinder heads, intake manifold and valve covers, or select their own components. To complete the build, the engine builder or customer supplies the camshaft and valvetrain that's best suited to their application.



If you're in the market for an affordable Ford small block and don’t want to gamble on a junkyard find or low-tech factory block, take a look at Dart’s SHP block. Its race block features and very competitive pricing make it tops on our list of best buys for 2009.

Our New Dart SHP Engine!

After touring the Dart facilities in Michigan, we were sold on the new Ford SHP short block and had a project back home that would be a perfect fit for the new engine. Jeff Garrison is one of the video editors at PowerTV, and he owns a 1986 Mustang with a high mileage, worn out factory 5.0. He recently had the suspension updated and the car is ready for some serious power. Our goal with this engine project is to assemble a hot street combination that will pass California Emissions Testing. The project is also on a tight budget, so a high dollar custom build is not in the cards.


Jeff Garrison's 1986 notchback was the perfect project for our Dart SHP Shortblock build-up.

With that goal in mind, we selected the assembled Dart Ford SHP short block, Dart Pro 1 aluminum cylinder heads, and a Dart valvetrain kit that includes a hydraulic roller camshaft, timing set and lifters.

When the 4.125 bore, 363 cubic inch version of the Ford SHP short block arrived, it was like Christmas for Jeff and the build crew. As delivered, the new SHP block had the cast-steel crankshaft, I-beam connecting rods and forged pistons. Not only did the Dart SHP short block have everything we needed to begin the build, we also had confidence in knowing that the short block was hand assembled by one of Dart's master engine builders. If you are not bent on building your own short block, and don't want the hassle of trying to match parts for the rotating assembly, it's great to have the experts at Dart do it for you. And they do it for a very competitive rate when you figure in their years and years of experience.


Dart shipped us the basic SHP short block for Jeff's new engine project – we plan to add Dart Pro 1 heads and their valvetrain kit.

In the next few months, we will cover the Dart SHP short block build-out for Jeff's car. Check back for more updates.

For more information about the SHP Ford block or short block assembly, or to find your local Dart SHP dealer, visit Dart's SHP site.

Source:

Dart Machine
Website: www.dartshp.com
Phone: (248) 362-1188 ]]> Ford's 302 small block has had a strong performance following since its official debut in 1967 and during the last decade, the Ford small block has become a major player in all performance circles. A number of companies, including Ford Racing, World Products, and Dart, have developed stronger racing and street blocks to match enthusiasts' tremendous thirst for power.



However, with the release of the Dart SHP Small Block Ford Block, Dart is attempting to take the small block Ford to new levels of performance for street-worthy prices. We recently had the opportunity to personally check out Dart's SHP Ford block at their Troy, Michigan facility and we were so impressed with the product, that we ordered one for an upcoming project!











With over ninety million having been built, the Chevy small block is still the king of the hill and dominates the aftermarket, but the Ford small block has been gathering momentum. The late model Mustang has been a major contributor to both the 302 small block Ford’s popularity and marketability. Once labeled “too expensive” to build (as compared to a Chevy), prices on quality, go-fast Ford parts have become more affordable.



Pro Stock Technology in Every SHP Block



Troy, Michigan-based Dart Machinery is a leader in the industry, and offers a full line of Ford small blocks to both the entry-level enthusiast and the professional racer alike. Dart’s owner and longtime race engine builder, Richard Maskin, works hard to keep his company on the radar of Ford enthusiasts. Walk through any NMRA event and ask competitors what block they are running, and you’ll find that Dart is well represented in the push rod classes. Maskin has been the engine builder and tuner behind three NHRA Pro Stock championships. In addition to his success on the track, he consults with the best Ford engine builders in the country for feedback and new ideas in block technology.





All SHP Ford blocks are made in the USA. Castings are done in Mid-West foundries and machined at Dart's Detroit facilities.



Dart’s latest SHP (Special High Performance) Ford small block shows how serious they are about being the source for high performance engine blocks, cylinder heads, and now complete short block assemblies.



SHP an Alternative to Mass Produced, Factory Crate Engines



The need for an entry-level performance Dart block reared its head at the PRI show several years ago. A longtime Dart customer brought Maskin one of the big “Detroit Three” performance catalogs and had a discussion about the expanding number of performance crate engines available. “Performance” crate engines, whose components are often produced using offshore foundries, offshore machining operations, and are assembled on high-volume assembly lines.





Dart realized that 302 and 351 blocks were becoming rare and other so-called “performance blocks” were lacking in content, so they created the SHP block.



This farming out/mass production process by the OEMs is necessary to attain competitive prices, but there are tradeoffs that arise when exchanging quality for quantity. After additional research and customer feedback, Maskin saw the need for a high quality, affordable American-built Ford block that would serve multiple customers' needs.



Dart's main goal with the new SHP block was to help local performance engine shops retake a share of the crate engine market, which has been taken over by the mail order madness that's swept through the performance industry. Back in the day, before the Internet and mail order giants, local engine shops were the experts on performance engine builds.









Dart, ever the performance patriot, is leading the charge to offer a quality block, in order to help the “mom and pop” engine builder develop crate engines. That way, small shops will be able compete with the factory built, mass produced units.



In addition to crate engines, Dart saw the market potential for a high quality Ford cast iron small block that would provide a better option than junkyard blocks. Realizing salvaged 302 and 351 blocks were becoming rare and other so called “performance blocks” were lacking in content, Dart created the SHP block.



After years of research and development, the SHP Ford small block is an affordable foundation for any Ford enthusiast. The SHP block eliminates the time and expense of finding, cleaning, machining and prepping a junkyard Ford small block (which may turn out to be a boat anchor after machine shop preparation). Even if you can find a usable core, the cost of rebuilding and blueprinting a junkyard block doesn’t make sense.



By the time a customer buys a used block and has it cleaned, pressure checked, decked, bored, and honed with a torque plate, the cost is higher than a brand-new SHP block that's already been machined to precise tolerances. With the SHP block, you simply unpack it from the shipping box, finish hone the cylinders, and it's ready to assemble.





The new Dart Ford SHP block is a performance upgrade from a factory Ford small block, and features many Dart race block updates.



Dart’s new Ford SHP small block is intended for the street/strip enthusiast and is capable of producing 600 – 700 horsepower. Its affordable $1,700 price tag (hundreds of dollars less than a full race block) and high-performance features make it an ideal block for a street machine, weekend bracket racer, oval track engine, off road truck, or performance marine application.



The new Dart Ford SHP block fits in between an original factory Ford 302 small block and a dedicated race block like Dart's Iron Eagle Sportsman block.
• The SHP block is stronger than a stock piece, and has thicker cylinder walls that can safely accommodate up to a 4.185" bore.



• Dart SHP block features scalloped water jackets around each cylinder barrel, so there is excellent coolant flow around the cylinders.



• While the block has street/strip credentials, it’s not intended for applications over 700 horsepower and is not designed to be a true race block. So don’t go throwing three stages of nitrous or 40 pounds of boost at it and expect it to live a long life.

SHP Block Engineered to Save You Money



Developed by Maskin and the Dart engineering team, the SHP block combines the traditional dimensions of the Ford small block with advanced technology developed after years of competition at the track. The SHP block is compatible with all stock Ford small block components – but it’s far superior to any OEM engine block. The SHP block incorporates advanced performance features that are not available in any mass produced production casting.



The Ford SHP block is designed to fit the most popular Ford small block performance applications, with an optional 8.200” (302 cubic inches) or 9.500” (351 cubic inches) deck height. You also have a choice of 4.00” or 4.125” siamesed cylinder bores. The bores can safely be bored to 4.185” for large cubic inch projects.





Billet splayed 4-bolt main caps and thick main webs are stronger than anything the Ford factory offers.



On the bottom end of the SHP Ford block, 4-bolt splayed billet steel main caps are used on the center three main journals. The inner main cap bolts are 1/2 inch diameter, while the outer main cap bolts are 7/16 inch diameter. The outer bolts are splayed to anchor the caps securely to the strongest part of the block. The end caps feature 2-bolt billet steel caps with beefy 1/2 inch bolts, and will clear the majority of Ford small block oil pans. Given the strength and rigidity of the bottom end, you’ll have no problem with the crankshaft walking around during high loads or rapid acceleration / deceleration.



For those who want to build a big cubic inch Ford small block, Dart has set the maximum recommended stroke at 3.500”. The maximum stroke, combined with a maximum bore of 4.185”, equals 385 maximum cubic inches on the 302-based SHP block.





Extended cylinder bores accommodate stroked cranks up to 3.500" and provide piston support at the bottom stroke.



The SHP block was also designed with extended cylinder bores to accommodate long crankshaft strokes, and offers more piston support during bottom stroke of the piston. This is a feature that you won't find in so-called performance factory blocks. For those weight conscious car builders, the Dart SHP 4.000” bore block weighs approximately 175 lbs, and the 4.125” bore block weighs 165 lbs.



When designing the SHP, Dart included many high-end features that will benefit a performance engine build, and omitted features that are more specific to an all-out race engine:



The SHP block has a true priority main oiling system. With the true priority main oiling design, engine oil is pumped to the main bearings first, then routed to the camshaft and on to the top of the motor. In a production block, the main oil gallery is above the camshaft, however in the SHP block, it's relocated to the side of the camshaft tunnel. In the SHP block, pressurized oil is sent directly from the oil gallery to the main bearings, rather than being routed around the cam bearings like a production block.



It does not have a front oil crossover or provisions for a dry sump system - that's only required for a dedicated race engine.





SHP block uses OE style lifters, guides and retainers. Aftermarket lifters may also be used.



In addition to oiling updates, the SHP block has provisions for OEM-style roller lifters, as well as OEM tie bar retainers and retainer plate. The OE lifter compatibility can save a customer hundreds of dollars on an engine build. The OEM-type lifters are much less expensive than aftermarket conversion hydraulic roller lifters, and they work well with a high-performance camshaft profile.



If your application requires aftermarket lifters, the block is designed to accommodate most aftermarket lifter designs. Another top end feature is the blind 1/2 inch head bolts that don’t extend into the water jackets. This stiffens the deck surface, increases the clamping load on the head gasket, and eliminates coolant seepage around the head bolts. You don't need sealer on the bolt threads - just lubricant.





SHP blocks are machined and finished by the same experts that work on Dart's Pro Stock race blocks.



All SHP blocks are made in America, using Dart’s proprietary tooling and casting techniques. The blocks are cast by one of Dart’s Mid-West foundry contractors, and then machined in Dart’s own Detroit area machining facility. After the block returns to Dart from the foundry, it’s precision machined to exact tolerances in Dart’s dedicated CNC machining center. The same technicians and tooling that machines Dart’s high-dollar Pro Stock race blocks are used on every SHP Ford small block. Dart uses the same Makino CNC machining centers and machinists to produce all blocks. This is a quality control process most manufactures cannot brag about.



The SHP Ford block is shipped from Dart’s Troy, Michigan facility, ready to assemble right out of the box (after a light honing of the cylinder bores for piston clearance).



SHP Short Block Assemblies



In addition to the base SHP Ford block, Dart is now offering a complete SHP short block assembly in a variety of options. The basic Ford SHP short block retails for around $3,500 and is competitively priced, considering the experts at Dart are assembling the parts. These SHP short blocks feature individually balanced crankshafts, connecting rods, pistons, file-fit moly rings and coated cam bearings.



The standard Ford SHP short block utilizes a cast steel 3.400-inch crankshaft, and a forged 4340 steel crankshaft is available as an upgrade. For connecting rods, the base SHP Ford short block is shipped with forged 4340 steel I-beam rods, with an optional high performance H-beam rod available for an additional cost. For pistons, the SHP short-block features hypereutectic slugs, with an optional forged piston for nitrous or boosted applications.





SHP short blocks are assembled in Dart's own engine assembly room, by the same team that assembles Dart's race engines.





Dart supplies and assembles the block, crankshaft, pistons, rods, and rings for the SHP short block. All of the components are designed to work together so there aren't any surprises.



All Dart SHP Ford Short Blocks are assembled by the same engine team that builds Dart's championship winning Pro Stock engines - no mass produced assembly line units here.



The SHP Ford short block assemblies are a great alternative to mass produced crate motors, because they keep the local speed shops and engine builders in the business. Dart supplies and assembles the basic SHP short block components – the block, crankshaft, pistons, rods, and rings. Because Dart buys the parts in quantity, the price is very reasonable, and all of the components are designed to work together so there aren't any surprises. A local shop can finish the engine with a Dart top end kit that includes the cylinder heads, intake manifold and valve covers, or select their own components. To complete the build, the engine builder or customer supplies the camshaft and valvetrain that's best suited to their application.







If you're in the market for an affordable Ford small block and don’t want to gamble on a junkyard find or low-tech factory block, take a look at Dart’s SHP block. Its race block features and very competitive pricing make it tops on our list of best buys for 2009.



Our New Dart SHP Engine!



After touring the Dart facilities in Michigan, we were sold on the new Ford SHP short block and had a project back home that would be a perfect fit for the new engine. Jeff Garrison is one of the video editors at PowerTV, and he owns a 1986 Mustang with a high mileage, worn out factory 5.0. He recently had the suspension updated and the car is ready for some serious power. Our goal with this engine project is to assemble a hot street combination that will pass California Emissions Testing. The project is also on a tight budget, so a high dollar custom build is not in the cards.





Jeff Garrison's 1986 notchback was the perfect project for our Dart SHP Shortblock build-up.



With that goal in mind, we selected the assembled Dart Ford SHP short block, Dart Pro 1 aluminum cylinder heads, and a Dart valvetrain kit that includes a hydraulic roller camshaft, timing set and lifters.



When the 4.125 bore, 363 cubic inch version of the Ford SHP short block arrived, it was like Christmas for Jeff and the build crew. As delivered, the new SHP block had the cast-steel crankshaft, I-beam connecting rods and forged pistons. Not only did the Dart SHP short block have everything we needed to begin the build, we also had confidence in knowing that the short block was hand assembled by one of Dart's master engine builders. If you are not bent on building your own short block, and don't want the hassle of trying to match parts for the rotating assembly, it's great to have the experts at Dart do it for you. And they do it for a very competitive rate when you figure in their years and years of experience.





Dart shipped us the basic SHP short block for Jeff's new engine project – we plan to add Dart Pro 1 heads and their valvetrain kit.



In the next few months, we will cover the Dart SHP short block build-out for Jeff's car. Check back for more updates.



For more information about the SHP Ford block or short block assembly, or to find your local Dart SHP dealer, visit Dart's SHP site.



Source:



Dart Machine

Website: www.dartshp.com

Phone: (248) 362-1188
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